by David P.Purnell (U.S.)
When first approaching this ambitious project entailing a comprehensive description of Zhuhai, I realized that my knowledge base and impressions were very limited. During a visit to Shenzhen more than a decade earlier, I had once been taken for a very pleasant day-trip to Zhuhai by the parents of students, but memories had melted together to form a rather blurred montage of beautiful beaches, vast green open spaces (that stood in such contrast to my memories of four years in Beijing in the 1980’s), impressive infrastructure and burgeoning development of luxury tourism. However, as we did research in quest of the real Zhuhai, and then had the pleasure of walking the streets and talking with residents, what I delighted in the most was going beyond those surface features. The glitzy and economically vibrant city on the sea was still there, of course, and stronger than ever. But the multi-faceted nature of Zhuhai, with its unique neighborhoods, rich history and deeply layered culture never failed to surprise, amaze and enchant me as I came to appreciate what a true gem it is.
最初接觸這個(gè)雄心勃勃的項(xiàng)目時(shí),我意識(shí)到,以我對(duì)這座城市極其有限的認(rèn)識(shí)和初次印象,要深入、詳盡地描述她是極富挑戰(zhàn)的一件事。雖然,十多年前的一次深圳之行,我和同行的學(xué)生家長(zhǎng)們一起有過(guò)一次愉快的珠海一日游。曼妙的海灘、滿眼的綠意、開放的氛圍、令人印象深刻的城市基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施、蓬勃的高端旅游業(yè)……這些記憶融合在一起,如同一場(chǎng)迷離的電影蒙太奇,構(gòu)成了我記憶深處珠海的模樣。
這一次,我們?cè)诮窒锫?、與當(dāng)?shù)厝碎e聊,最令我欣喜的,是能撥開城市表面的種種,去探究、發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)真實(shí)的珠海。這一次我發(fā)現(xiàn),這座充滿活力的海濱之城鮮活依舊,卻也比以往任何時(shí)候都富有生機(jī)。珠海多層面的、包羅萬(wàn)象的內(nèi)在——獨(dú)特的街區(qū),悠久、豐腴的歷史以及深厚的文化底蘊(yùn),讓我感到驚喜連連,沉浸其中,驚嘆不已。慢慢地,我意識(shí)到這座城市是一個(gè)瑰寶。
The quiet grace and erudite atmosphere of ancestral halls, bookstores and music shops of the Beishan community quickly enveloped me and I sensed among the people I talked with a sincere love and solemn stewardship for the local culture as well as traditional Chinese learning and arts.
在北山,那些嫻靜、文雅的宗祠,各式各樣的書店和音樂(lè)商店共同打造的文藝氛圍包裹著我的身心。在那里,我深刻感受到了人們對(duì)于當(dāng)?shù)匚幕椭袊?guó)傳統(tǒng)發(fā)自內(nèi)心的領(lǐng)悟和虔誠(chéng)守護(hù),以及深深的敬畏。
The brave little fishing village of Qi’ao Dao, reputed to have stood up to opium smugglers more than a century earlier, had a different atmosphere - with open-air shops and the bounty of the sea drying in the sun - but the warmth of the people and the confidence and affection they showed for their community and culture was the same.
一個(gè)多世紀(jì)前,小小的淇澳島上,英勇的居民曾經(jīng)與鴉片走私者抗衡。窄窄的街巷兩旁是露天商鋪,人們?cè)隍滉?yáng)下晾曬來(lái)自大海的各種恩賜。歷史讓這里的氛圍與眾不同,而島民們的熱情,他們對(duì)于當(dāng)?shù)匚幕淖孕?、認(rèn)同和深厚情感,卻依然是所有珠海人的寫照。
Tangjia was another area that, though unique with its long, verdant streets, brimming with historic charm and local culinary treasures, shared a similar spirit with a dignified yet open and friendly “sense of place.”
唐家是另一方獨(dú)特的天地。長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的、郁郁蔥蔥的街道充滿歷史的魅力,還有富有地方特色的美食佳肴,展現(xiàn)著城市一脈相承的精神,充滿著開放、友好的地域感。
In summary, as much as I loved the architecture, stunning coastline, and wonderful stories ranging from inspiring acts of Song Dynasty patriotism to the devoted preservation of colorful folk customs and the haunting tales of lost love, it is the warm spirit and “good vibrations”of the people of Zhuhai that will always remain with me.
我愛珠海的建筑、迷人的海岸線、從宋代流傳至今的傳說(shuō)、當(dāng)?shù)厝藢?duì)豐富多彩的民俗文化虔誠(chéng)的堅(jiān)守,還有那些關(guān)于失落的愛情的故事。然而,更永遠(yuǎn)地留存在我心里的,是珠海人的熱忱,以及我和他們之間的那些美妙的情感交織和心靈感應(yīng)。