陳夢(mèng)佳 蔣高明 張燕婷 李欣欣

摘要：為解決傳統(tǒng)經(jīng)編三維間隔鞋材提花組織和花色不豐富、生產(chǎn)效率低的問題，提出一種在高速經(jīng)編賈卡機(jī)器上編織雙色提花鞋材的方法。利用電子賈卡可以同時(shí)在針前橫移和針背橫移時(shí)進(jìn)行偏移的特點(diǎn)，結(jié)合組織結(jié)構(gòu)和賈卡偏移控制信息與偏移時(shí)刻，形成成圈組織、網(wǎng)孔組織、缺墊組織和重經(jīng)組織，豐富了提花組織結(jié)構(gòu);利用賈卡梳櫛半機(jī)號(hào)配置特點(diǎn)，在奇數(shù)縱行和偶數(shù)縱行的賈卡導(dǎo)紗針分別穿不同染色性能的紗線，配合組織結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)形成具有雙色提花效應(yīng)的布面效果。以具體工藝為例，介紹了雙色賈卡提花鞋材的工藝設(shè)計(jì)方法，包括原料選擇、工藝參數(shù)設(shè)計(jì)、染色整理等，開發(fā)的鞋材具有良好的穿著舒適性和美觀性，可以為其他經(jīng)編提花面料的開發(fā)提供理論參考依據(jù)。

關(guān)鍵詞：經(jīng)編;鞋材;賈卡提花;雙色提花;工藝設(shè)計(jì)

中圖分類號(hào)：TS184.3文獻(xiàn)標(biāo)志碼：A文章編號(hào)：1009-265X（2020）01-0036-06

Study on Twocolor Jacquard Processes for Wrapknitting Shoe Fabric

CHEN Mengjia1， JIANG Gaoming1， ZHANG Yanting1， LI Xinxin2

Abstract：In order to solve the problems of few structures and colors of traditional warpknitted threedimensional spacer jacquard fabric and low production efficiency， a method of weaving twocolor jacquard shoe fabric with highspeed warp knitting Jacquard machine is proposed in this study. The structure of jacquard has been enriched by forming looped tissue， mesh structure， missing pad tissue and heavy tissue based on the feature that electronic Jacquard can shift while lateral moving in front and rear of knitting needle simultaneously in combination with organizational structure， Jacquard transfer control information and transfer moments. According to the characteristics of jacquard comb number configuration， the cloth surface with twocolor jacquard effect was designed and formed in combination with the organizational structure by threading jacquard guide needles in odd and even longitudinal rows respectively with yarns of different dyeing properties. In this study， a processes design method of twocolor jacquard shoe fabrics was introduced by taking specific processes as an example， including raw material selection， process parameter design， dyeing finishing and so on. The shoe fabric developed in this study has good wearing comfort and aesthetics. This method can provide theoretical reference for the development of other warpknitted jacquard fabrics.

Key words：warpknitting; shoe fabric; jacquard; twocolor; process design

傳統(tǒng)經(jīng)編鞋材以經(jīng)編間隔織物為主，一方面間隔織物利用組織結(jié)構(gòu)變化形成提花效應(yīng)，提花效果不夠豐富且難以實(shí)現(xiàn)雙色提花效應(yīng)，另一方面經(jīng)編雙針床的編織效率較低，開機(jī)速率和機(jī)器幅寬都不如單針床經(jīng)編機(jī)。單層經(jīng)編織物具有結(jié)實(shí)、易洗、不易變形、穿著舒適的特點(diǎn)，可以滿足消費(fèi)者對(duì)運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋面材料的服用性、功能性和個(gè)性化方面的追求，深受消費(fèi)者的喜愛，因此廣泛用于夏季運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋面。以一款用經(jīng)編單層賈卡提花鞋面材料作為運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋面的舉例如圖1。

1雙色賈卡提花原理

經(jīng)編雙色提花鞋面織物由賈卡經(jīng)編機(jī)編織而成，編織單層雙色提花鞋面時(shí)，需要采用3～4把梳櫛[1]。該類織物作為一種新型的鞋面材料，花型效果豐富，由于編鏈及襯緯的作用，織物的橫向縱向保形性好，手感挺括，深受消費(fèi)者的喜愛。

傳統(tǒng)的賈卡提花技術(shù)中，賈卡導(dǎo)紗針只在導(dǎo)紗梳櫛進(jìn)行針背橫移時(shí)產(chǎn)生偏移，利用導(dǎo)紗梳櫛針背橫移針距數(shù)不同，可以形成網(wǎng)孔組織效應(yīng)、薄組織效應(yīng)和厚組織效應(yīng)等，并通過這些效應(yīng)隨機(jī)組合，構(gòu)成結(jié)構(gòu)提花的花紋效果。成圈型賈卡的針前偏移一般常應(yīng)用在雙針床賈卡經(jīng)編機(jī)上生產(chǎn)提花連褲襪，無縫服裝等[2]，通過控制邊緣部分的賈卡針，選擇性的在前針床或者后針床相應(yīng)的針上成圈或者缺墊，從而實(shí)現(xiàn)前后片織物的無縫連接。此外，通過控制賈卡導(dǎo)紗針在針前橫移時(shí)的偏移信息可以形成缺墊、單針成圈和重經(jīng)3種效應(yīng)，再加上針背橫移針距數(shù)的不同形成的各種效應(yīng)，織物的花紋效果更為豐富，立體效果更強(qiáng)[2]。