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讀著百家姓路過你的世界

2020-09-10 07:22楊璽
今日重慶 2020年10期
關(guān)鍵詞:王家姓氏重慶

楊璽

重慶軌道交通站名里,哪個字出現(xiàn)的頻率最高?

一番統(tǒng)計下來,“家”字位居榜首,達到22個 ,光是2號線,含“家”字的站點就有6個——曾家?guī)r、袁家崗、謝家灣、楊家坪、金家灣、劉家壩。

這其實是重慶地名特點的一個縮影。對于老重慶人來說,類似這樣的地名張口就來,甚至可以對應(yīng)著“趙錢孫李周吳鄭王”的順序,就像是背《百家姓》:趙家壩、錢家院、孫家花園、李家沱、周家坪、吳家坪、鄭家塆、王家坡……

Which word appears most frequently in the names of Chongqing rail transit stations?

According to statistics, the word"home" topped the list, hitting 22. On Line 2 alone, there are 6 stations named with the word "Jia (literally home)" -- Zengjiayan, Yuanjiagang, Xiejiawan, Yangjiaping, Jinjiawan and Liujiaba.

This is actually a microcosm of how the places in Chongqing are named. For native Chongqing citizens, place names of this sort are too numerous to enumerate, and they can even recite them: Zhaojiaba, Qianjiayuan, Sunjiahuayuan, Lijiatuo, Zhoujiaping, Wujiaping, Zhengjiayu, Wangjiapo..., following the order of the surnames in the Hundred Family Surnames, that is, "Zhao-Qian-Sun-Li-Zhou-WuZheng-Wang".

地名背后的家族史Family History Behind Place Names

姓氏地名,我國各地都有。不過在重慶則尤顯復(fù)雜有趣,除了涉及姓氏眾多,各種地形也無所不包,十足體現(xiàn)了山城江城特色,比如汪山、李家沱、曾家?guī)r、董家溪、楊家坪、馬家堡、肖家灣、陳家壩、劉家臺、王家坡……

以自家姓氏來為地域冠名,自然是一件光宗耀祖的事,一般來說,只有大家族才有這樣的榮耀。

“重慶老城里那些以姓為名的街名巷名,大多在明代就已經(jīng)形成了?!敝貞c地名文化研究專家李正權(quán)說,明代以來,隨著長江上下游的經(jīng)濟交流增多,重慶城里出現(xiàn)了一些世家大族,他們的住宅往往占地好幾畝,甚至形成街道,于是便有了這些姓氏地名,“明代的重慶老城,有蹇、劉、牟、曹四姓世家,于是就有蹇家橋、劉家臺、曹家巷?!?/p>

曹家巷如今依然存在,北接新華路,南連陜西路,位于朝天門批發(fā)市場,很是熱鬧。

最顯赫的蹇家當(dāng)年有“蹇半城”一說,除了蹇家巷、蹇家橋,還留下了一條街叫天官府。天官府本是明朝吏部尚書蹇義的府邸,為明宣宗所賜。自古以來,重慶人在朝廷做大官的不少,但由皇帝賞賜府邸的就蹇義一個。因為天官府名氣大,府邸所在的通遠門和南紀門之間斜坡上的街巷,逐漸就被統(tǒng)稱為“天官府”。

清康熙年間,位于南紀門內(nèi)的重慶鎮(zhèn)總兵韓成的故宅“韓府大堂”,也因其規(guī)模龐大,留下了韓府街、韓家大巷、韓家小巷的地名。

如果說老城里的那些地名記載的是世家望族的榮耀,那么城外的這些姓氏地名,則承載了更多的創(chuàng)業(yè)艱辛。

明末清初連年戰(zhàn)亂,四川人口銳減,全省在籍人口最少時僅18000余戶,約9萬余人。重慶最少的時候甚至只剩下不到一千家,以致城內(nèi)出現(xiàn)“群虎白日出游”的景象。

1670年,康熙帝頒布《康熙三十三年招民填川詔》,下令從湖南、湖北、廣東等地向四川移民。

當(dāng)時的重慶民生凋敝,到處都是荒地,遷移來的老百姓“插苫為業(yè)”,選中一塊荒地后,圍上一圈竹竿竹條就可作為自己的田產(chǎn),還可享受各種田賦減免。

地多、人少,家家戶戶都圈出一大片地來,落地生根,開枝散葉。隨著家業(yè)擴大、人丁興旺,久而久之,人們便以這家的姓氏來指代這片地方了。

Place names that derive from surname can be found everywhere in our country. Those of Chongqing, in particular, are more complicated and interesting. Besides the numerous surnames involved, all kinds of terrain are also not new, fully reflecting the distinct features of the mountain city and the river city. For instance, Wangshan, Lijiatuo, Zengjiayan, Dongjiaxi, Yangjiaping, Majiabao, Xiaojiawan, Chenjiaba, Liujiatai, Wangjiapo...

Naming a region with one’s surname is certainly a matter that can glorify and illuminate the ancestors. Generally speaking, only families with strong backgrounds have such an honor.

"Most of streets and lanes in the old Chongqing city got their names from surnames of certain families in the Ming Dynasty," said Li Zhengquan, an expert on Chongqing place name culture. Since the Ming Dynasty, with the increase of economic exchanges between the upper and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, emerged some aristocratic families in Chongqing. Their houses often covered several acres of land, some even built with streets, hence came into being the place names from surnames." In the old city of Chongqing in the Ming Dynasty, there were four aristocratic families of Jian, Liu, Mou and Cao, so there were places named Jianjiaqiao, Liujiatai and Caojiaxiang."

Among them, Caojiaxiang still exists today. Located in the Chaotianmen Wholesale Market, it is connected to Xinhua Road in the north and Shaanxi Road in the south, and is a busy street.

The most prominent Jian family was once called "Half City of Jian" in those days. In addition to Jianjiaxiang and Jianjiaqiao, the family also left a street named Tianguanfu. Tianguanfe was originally the residence of Jian Yi, minister of the Ministry of Personnel in the Ming Dynasty, granted by Emperor Xuanzong. Since ancient times, Chongqing has been home to many a highranking officials in the imperial court, but Jian Yi was the only one who was rewarded a residence by the emperor. Due to the great reputation of Tianguanfu, the streets and lanes on the slope between Tongyuan Gate and Nanji Gate, where the residence was located, were gradually collectively referred to as "Tianguanfu".

During the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, the "Hanfu Lobby", the old residence of Han Cheng, the commander-in-chief of Chongqing Town, located in Nanji Gate, also left behind place names of Hanfujie, Hanjiadaxiang and Hanjiaxiaoxiang due to its huge scale.

If the place names in the old city are records of the glories of the aristocratic families, then the surname-based place names outside the city carry more hardships of start-ups.

Years of wars amid the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties led to a huge population drop in Sichuan, with only 18,000 households and about 90,000 people at its lowest. And in the case of Chongqing, the number of households was even less than 1,000, resulting in the scene of "tigers traveling in the daytime" in the city.

In 1670, Emperor Kangxi issued the Imperial Edict on Immigration from Huguang to Sichuan in the thirty-third year of Kangxi which ordered people living in Hunan, Hubei, Guangdong and other places to move to Sichuan.

At that time, Chongqing was in a mass impoverishment, with wastelands being seen everywhere. The migrated people selected a wasteland, enclosed it with a circle of bamboo poles and strips, then they got their own property and enjoyed various feudal land tax deductions.

With more land and fewer people, every household had circled a large area of land, taking root and thriving. As the properties and population got larger and larger, people began name the places with their surnames.

用姓氏串起的路Roads Strung Together by Surnames

也許3號線上接連的鄭家院子、唐家院子、童家院子會讓外地人比較驚奇,但實際上,還有比這更密集更典型的一條路,那就是從兩路口到楊家坪沿線。

一出兩路口,首先就會經(jīng)過王家坡——這里因清代江西王姓叔侄來此開荒種地而得名。

王家坡位于長江一路七孔橋一帶的傾斜山坡上,“頭頂”鵝嶺“貳廠”文創(chuàng)公園,“腳踩”菜園壩重慶火車站。這里曾經(jīng)是重慶市的紅旗社區(qū),是全國聞名的衛(wèi)生模范街道,因此還命名了一條紅旗街。當(dāng)年坡上一排排三層的紅磚房依山而建、鱗次櫛比,學(xué)校、店鋪、醫(yī)務(wù)室一應(yīng)俱全。如今的王家坡經(jīng)歷了拆遷,早沒了往日的熱鬧,只有一座僻靜的竹林公園和些許老房子。而近旁的皇冠大扶梯,現(xiàn)在成了游客的打卡景點。

沿長江一路前行不遠,左側(cè)有條下行的支馬路,名叫下徐家坡,也是因為清代有徐姓人家住在這片坡地而得名。下徐家坡道路蜿蜒曲折,車流量卻不小——住在“坡上”的居民,以及到兩路口派出所、渝中區(qū)福利院、王家坡社區(qū)居委會辦事的人都要從這里經(jīng)過。

繼續(xù)前行,由長江一路轉(zhuǎn)為長江二路就到了肖家灣。肖家灣分為上肖家灣和下肖家灣,在肖家灣車站以長江二路為界,往坡下菜袁路黃沙溪方向的,自然就是下肖家灣,重慶首次采用架空棧道來修建的公園——下肖家灣公園就在這里,棧橋總長為466米,梯步總長為 1689米,整體高度落差約70米。走在梯步上,不管是仰望還是俯瞰,乍一看都讓人頗為驚悚,以致有游客專程為此前來打卡。

長江二路在大坪拐了個彎,折向袁家崗方向,途中會經(jīng)過馬家堡。馬家堡地方不大,但對于“好吃狗”來說,這里“開半天”面館的名頭不小,早上就著一碟薄如紙片的涼拌豬耳吃一碗小面,著實安逸。

吃了面一路往前,經(jīng)過袁家崗、謝家灣,就到了楊家坪。可以想見,這一路當(dāng)年曾是袁姓、謝姓和楊姓人家聚居、耕種的地方。

Perhaps the successive place names such as Zhengjiayuanzi, Tangjiayuanzi, and Tongjiayuanzi alongside Line 3 may surprise visitors, yet there is more typical road with more surname-based place names, that is the road stretching from Lianglukou to the Yangjiaping.

Once get out of Lianglukou, you will first pass Wangjiapo, which was named after a man and his nephew from a Wang family in Jiangxi Province, who came here in the Qing Dynasty to open up wasteland and cultivate crops.

Wangjiapo sits on the sloping hillside under the Seven-hole Bridge at the First Yangtze River Road. It stands behind the"TESTBED 2" Cultural and Creative Park in Eling and sets foots on the Chongqing Railway Station at Caiyuanba. It used to be the Hongqi Community in Chongqing, a well-known health model street across the country. Therefore, a Hongqi Street was also named. In those days, continuous rows of three-story red brick houses on the slope were built leaning the mountains, lined up with schools, shops and infirmaries. Today’s Wangjiapo, after demolition, has long lost its former liveliness, with only a secluded bamboo forest park and some old houses. The nearby Huangguan Escalator has now become a clock-in attraction for tourists.

Go all the way along the Yangtze River, there is a branch road on the left, named Xiaxujiapo, which is also named after the family of Xu that lived on this slope in Qing Dynasty. The road winds and twists, but with a huge traffic -- residents living on the "slope" and people who go to the police station at Lianglukou, Yuzhong District Welfare Home and Wangjiapo Community Neighborhood Committee all pass through here.

Continue to move forward, from the First Yangtze River Road to the Second Yangtze River Road, you’ll arrive at Xiaojiawan. Xiaojiawan is divided into Shangxiaojiawan and Xiaxiaojiawan by the Second Yangtze River Road, and heading downhill for Caiyuanlu and Huangshaxi, you will arrive at Xiaxiaojiawan, where the Xiaxiaojiawan Park, a park built by Chongqing using overhead plank roads for the first time, is located here. The total length of trestle is 466 meters, the ladder steps 1689 meters, and the overall drop height is about 70 meters. Walking on the ladder step, whether looking up or down, it was quite frightening. Many tourists come from afar to set their foot on it.

The Second Yangtze River Road takes a turn in Daping and turns towards Yuanjiagang, passing Majiabao. Majiabao is not big in land size. But the "half-dayopen" noodle restaurants here enjoy a wide reputation among the "foodies". In the morning, it is really comfortable to eat a bowl of noodles with a plate of cold pig ears as thin as paper.

After eating noodles, walking all the way through Yuanjiagang and Xiejiawan, you’ll get to Yangjiaping. It is conceivable that this road was once a place where people surnamed Yuan, Xie and Yang lived and cultivated.

時尚之城藏著舊城時光Old Time Hidden in the Fashion City

盡管袁家崗、謝家灣、楊家坪都是響當(dāng)當(dāng)?shù)牡孛?,不過,曾有很長一段時間,生活在這一帶的居民,更喜歡稱這里為“建設(shè)廠”,而他們多半也和建設(shè)廠有著千絲萬縷的聯(lián)系。

重慶建設(shè)廠,全名國營建設(shè)機床廠,前身是1889年張之洞創(chuàng)建的湖北槍炮廠,即后來的漢陽兵工廠,被譽為“民族工業(yè)搖籃”。建設(shè)廠曾經(jīng)是重慶市一號信箱的主用單位,也是重慶有史以來唯一使用1位數(shù)信箱的單位,可見其身世顯赫。當(dāng)年從袁家崗田家炳中學(xué)到楊家坪直港大道,都是它的地盤。1991年,建設(shè)廠改制為“建設(shè)工業(yè)集團公司”,2009年完成搬遷,離開了謝家灣。昔日高大的廠房、高聳的煙囪、熱火朝天的車間、人頭攢動的廠區(qū)……以及代表了一個時代的“建設(shè)廠”這個名字,都被萬象城、龍湖西城天街、艾佳沁園等耳目一新的符號所代替。

不過,就在時尚繁華的商圈背后,我們依然能找到建設(shè)廠烙下的歷史印記。與萬象城一墻之隔,就是建設(shè)廠老家屬區(qū)。這里的房子普遍不高,外墻被時光染上了暗色調(diào)。家屬區(qū)的喧囂與萬象城的熱鬧,如同放置在一起的沱茶和咖啡,各自散發(fā)著不同的香和苦。

老家屬區(qū)里,沿街的一排店鋪組成了被時間遺忘的“舊日小集市”。衣店的商品賣得非常便宜,簡單地理個發(fā)只需要花5塊錢。到了夜里,三步一家火鍋,五步一攤燒烤,不少有名的老火鍋都是建設(shè)廠子弟開的,很多人開著導(dǎo)航專門找過來……

“原來建設(shè)廠里啥都有,幼兒園、小學(xué)、中學(xué)、醫(yī)院、電影院,不出廠都能吃好耍好?!弊≡诮ㄔO(shè)廠家屬區(qū)的陳婆婆說,廠區(qū)變成了住宅小區(qū),不少火鍋店的老板掙了錢,還是買這里的小區(qū)房,“還是沒走出建設(shè)廠。”

Although big names now, Yuanjiagang, Xiejiawan and Yangjiaping were called by the residents living in this area as "Construction Factory" for a long time, and most of them were also inextricably linked with the construction factory.

Chongqing Construction Factory, whose full name is the State-owned Construction Machine Tool Factory, was formerly the Hubei Guns Factory founded by Zhang Zhidong in 1889, later became Hanyang Arsenal, hailed as the "Cradle of National Industry". The Construction Factory used to be a key customer of Chongqing No.1 Mailbox, and was also the only unit in Chongqing’s that used 1-digit mailbox, a sign of its prominence. In those days, from Tin Ka Ping Secondary School at Yuanjiagang to the Zhigang Avenue at Yangjiaping, it was all its territory. The Construction Factory was transformed into a "Construction Industry Group Company" in 1991 and left Xiejiawan in 2009 because of relocation. The tall factory buildings, towering chimneys, bustling workshops, crowded factory areas... and the name"Construction Factory", which represented the era, were replaced by refreshing symbols such as The Mixc, Longfor Paradise Walk and Aijia Qinyuan.

However, behind the fashionable and prosperous business districts, we can still find the historical mark of the Construction Factory. Separated from The Mixc by a wall is the old dependant’s area of the Construction Factory. The houses here are generally not high, with their outer walls darkened by the fleeting time. The hustle and bustle of this area and bustling scenes at The Mixc, when put together, are like tuo tea and coffee, each emitting different fragrance and bitterness.

In the old family area, a row of shops along the street formed an "old small market" forgotten by time. The goods in the clothing store are very cheap, and it costs only 5 yuan for a haircut. The street is bustling at night. You’ll meet a hot pot restaurant every three steps and a barbecue booth every five steps. Many famous old hot pots restaurants are opened by the children of former employees of the Construction Factory. Many a visitor even drive here following the navigation...

"The Construction Factory used to have everything in it, kindergartens, primary schools, secondary schools, hospitals and cinemas. We could have a good day without leaving the factory," said Granny Chen, who lives in the family area of the Construction Factory. After the factory was turned into a residential area, many hotpot owners earned much money and bought their own houses here, "still live in the Construction Factory."

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