国产日韩欧美一区二区三区三州_亚洲少妇熟女av_久久久久亚洲av国产精品_波多野结衣网站一区二区_亚洲欧美色片在线91_国产亚洲精品精品国产优播av_日本一区二区三区波多野结衣 _久久国产av不卡

?

尋找舌尖上的味覺極致

2014-07-18 19:23錢潤荷
關(guān)鍵詞:百利怪味川菜

錢潤荷

中國中央電視臺紀(jì)錄片頻道推出的首部大型美食紀(jì)錄片《舌尖上的中國》引發(fā)了中國全民的美食熱潮。從繁華的東南沿海大都市到邊遠地區(qū)大山深處的村落,該片在記錄了一道道美味佳肴的同時,也記錄了美味背后一個個觸動人心的故事,通過中國美食這個窗口,向世界傳遞中國文化,傳播中國聲音,向世界展示了中國的魅力。最近國外媒體也都紛紛前往中國制作美食記錄片,如BBC的《發(fā)現(xiàn)中國——美食之旅》,就試圖通過飲食,探尋中國最深處的靈魂。在中國美食熱潮的影響下,一些老外也紛紛加入了體驗的隊伍,寫下了各種關(guān)于美食的游記。以下就是一位紐約人筆下所記錄的尋找舌尖上的味覺極致之旅。

The first stage of Sichuan addiction — experimentation — is brief and violent (激烈的). You either get out immediately, vanquished (被征服的) and penitent (后悔的) or something inside you changes. Inside your stomach and inside your brain, it alters the neurochemistry (神經(jīng)化學(xué)系統(tǒng)), requiring the addict to (沉溺于) seek to match that first, miraculous (奇跡的) high. My initiation (起始) occurred in 1997 at Wu Liang Ye, one of Manhattans first Sichuan restaurants, which, the manager told me, was opened by the Peoples Republic of China to promote (促進) awareness of the variety and complexity (多樣性和復(fù)雜性) of Chinese cuisine (中國菜).

“品嘗”是對川菜上癮的第一階段,這個階段是短暫而激烈的。你要么就馬上沖出去,滿心后悔,覺得自己敗下陣來;要么就覺得自己體內(nèi)有什么東西發(fā)生了變化。從胃部和大腦,它讓你的整個神經(jīng)化學(xué)系統(tǒng)都發(fā)生變化,讓你不斷追求以期再次體驗到那奇跡般的味覺極致,繼而徹底上癮,欲罷不能。我的初體驗是1997年在曼哈頓的第一批川菜館之一的五糧液飯店。飯店老板告訴我,它是由“中華人民共和國”開辦的,目的是宣傳中國菜的豐富多樣。

This act of culinary (烹飪的) propaganda (宣傳) was very successful — Sichuan restaurants soon began appearing all over New York. I later followed the Sichuan trail (蹤跡) to restaurants in Sunset Park and the subterranean (地下的;隱蔽的) food courts in Flushing, which require a Chinese-speaking guide, of course. It was a pastime (消遣), I told myself, all in good fun. Then I read about the San Gabriel Valley, east of Los Angeles, which has the most concentrated (最集中的) Chinese community in the U.S. and an incredible number of Sichuan restaurants. The best known of these — the Sichuan king of San Gabriel — is Chung King. The next time I was in L.A., I drove straight to San Gabriel Boulevard. Thats when I lost control. I dont know if Chung King is the best Sichuan restaurant in America, but Im sure that it can make you crazy.

這個美味宣傳攻勢可謂是大獲成功,那之后不久,紐約就開始遍地都是川菜館了。后來我又到日落公園和法拉盛區(qū)的地下小吃攤?cè)ぴL川菜的蹤跡,這當(dāng)然需要有個會說中文的向?qū)ьI(lǐng)。我告訴自己,這只是消遣,純粹是種樂趣而已。后來我又看到報道,說洛杉磯東部有個叫圣加百利谷的地方,是美國華人最集中的社區(qū),川菜館的數(shù)量多得難以置信。其中最有名的一家,叫“重慶”,算得上是圣加百利的川菜之王。后來再去洛杉磯的時候,我就開著車直奔圣加百利大道。我就是從那一次開始徹底淪陷的。不知道“重慶”是不是全美最好的川菜館,但我保證它讓人瘋狂。

A clarification (澄清;說明): Sichuan food should not be confused with (與……混淆) what most Americans understand to be Chinese food. It is distinguished (區(qū)別) by spicy, oil-based sauces that are flavored by salt, garlic, ginger, doubanjiang — a spicy paste (糊狀物) made from broad beans (蠶豆) — and, most important, Sichuan peppercorns (花椒), which burst like firecrackers on your tongue and give the food its trademark (商標(biāo)) flavor: ma la. When your mouth is coated with ma la, water tastes like ginger ale (姜汁). One Sichuan devotee (愛好者) I know describes the ma la flavor as a “tonguegasm.” The pulse (脈搏) increases, and the brain floats in a wonderful space either.

澄清一點,不要把川菜和大多數(shù)美國人理解的中餐混為一談。川菜的特色是辛辣,用油作為底料調(diào)味,輔以鹽、姜、蒜和豆瓣醬(一種用蠶豆做成的香辣醬)。不過最關(guān)鍵的還要算花椒,它們就像小爆竹一樣在舌尖上爆炸,賦予了食物川菜的招牌特色——“麻辣”。 當(dāng)口腔里充滿麻辣的滋味,清水品嘗起來就像是姜汁飲料一樣。我認識的一個川菜愛好者說,麻辣的感覺就像“舌尖上的極致享受”,讓人脈搏加快,讓人的大腦在一個美妙的空間里飄蕩。

Sichuan menus list about 800 dishes, and at many lesser restaurants each comes drowned in (被淹沒) a numbing, spicy oil (麻辣油). But Sichuan cuisine has, in fact, 22 other flavors besides ma la. This I learned from Fuchsia Dunlops Sichuan cookbook, “Land of Plenty,” in which she describes each of these flavors, including “red-oil flavor,” “fragrant (香的) wine flavor” and, my favorite, “strange-flavor,” which combines (結(jié)合) ma la with salty, sweet, sour (酸), fresh-savory (鮮) and fragrant notes.

川菜菜單通常會包括將近800道菜,在很多比較小的餐館里,每道菜都會浸泡在麻辣油里送上來。但實際上除了麻辣之外,川菜其實還有22種其他口味。這是我在法希婭.丹羅普的川菜烹飪書《富饒之地》里讀到的。她在書中詳細描述了每一種口味,其中包括“紅油”、“酒糟”,還有我最心愛的“怪味”——它把麻辣和咸、甜、酸、鮮、香這些口味統(tǒng)統(tǒng)結(jié)合在一起。

On my return to Chung King this summer, I determined to try as many of the 23 flavors as possible. I began with “Chung King-flavored noodles”; these were numbing and spicy, to be certain, but also had a note of “scorched-chili flavor”, which is derived (源自于) from mixing fried, dried chili with soy sauce (醬油), Sichuan pepper, vinegar, garlic and sugar. A dry, cumin-dusted (孜然粉) lamb and large chunks (大塊) of garlic and chili peppers had the dense (濃重的) “smoked flavor.” Spicy eggplant, a very important dish in Sichuan, tasted as if it had been fermented (釀;發(fā)酵) in vinegar, a blending (混合) of the “home-style” and “fish-fragrant” flavors. Most magnificent (華麗的), however, were the boiled fish slices, with fresh cilantro (香菜), in a bowl of hot sauce, in which you could not find only the Sichuan peppercorn but also star anise (八角). The fried chicken with garlic and red chili peppers might have been with the “strange-flavor,” but by that point my mouth was numb (發(fā)麻的).

今年夏天我又去了一趟“重慶”,決定盡可能地多多嘗試這23種口味。我先從“重慶擔(dān)擔(dān)面”開始,它又麻又辣,但其實屬于“干炸辣椒”風(fēng)味,是把油炸過的干辣椒和醬油、花椒、醋、大蒜和糖混合起來調(diào)味。還有一種加了孜然粉的干羊腿,上菜時輔以蒜瓣和紅辣椒,是濃重的“煙熏”風(fēng)味。有一種辣味茄子,是川菜里很重要的一道菜,嘗起來像是用醋腌制過,混合了“家?!焙汀棒~香”口味。不過最華麗的一道菜還要算是水煮魚片,上菜時提供一碗熱乎乎的調(diào)味汁,里面裝點著香菜,不僅能品嘗出花椒香味,還有八角的味道。大蒜和干紅辣椒炸雞屬于“怪味”風(fēng)味,會讓你口中充滿奇妙的怪味,同時也會讓你嘴里麻麻的。

I always make a point of (堅持要) ordering some dish unsettling (擾亂) to the Western sensibility, but it must be real and therefore marvelous (非凡的). At Chung King, the best way to do this is to walk to the back of the restaurant, where there stands a kind of deli (熟食品) counter with a number of cold dishes that the restaurant does not include on the English menu. I pointed at a platter that seemed to contain thin slabs (薄片) of red marble (大理石). I was told that these were sliced (切片的) pig ears. They were salty and greasy (油膩的) “Sichuan pepper flavor”, from Sichuan pepper mashed (搗碎) with green scallions (蔥), salt and sesame oil (芝麻油). I ate them all.

我一直都喜歡點一些西方人感情上接受不了的菜,但它必須是貨真價實的美味。在“重慶”,這樣的東西最好到飯館后面的熟食柜臺去找,里面有不少冷菜,是飯館提供的英語菜單上沒有的。我指著一盤看上去像是薄薄的紅色大理石板的東西,結(jié)果被告知這是切片的豬耳朵。它們又咸又油膩,屬于“川椒”口味,就是用搗碎的花椒加上香蔥、鹽和芝麻油調(diào)味。我把一大盤全吃光了。

猜你喜歡
百利怪味川菜
翠花,上川菜!
百利怡向保定金能提供X10 PRO復(fù)卷生產(chǎn)線
第二道 川菜資格人
百利怡50周年慶典在南京舉辦
川菜資格人
奇趣怪味豆
加百利夫婦的夢想
怪味美食家
怪味解讀
英山县| 修武县| 济宁市| 宜州市| 边坝县| 兴仁县| 汉中市| 钟祥市| 沈阳市| 淮安市| 灵武市| 化州市| 长治县| 九龙坡区| 东至县| 信阳市| 西昌市| 揭阳市| 新乡市| 陈巴尔虎旗| 崇信县| 江城| 怀柔区| 柯坪县| 宁陵县| 文化| 麦盖提县| 巴青县| 长宁区| 镇康县| 遂昌县| 航空| 济阳县| 大姚县| 库伦旗| 枞阳县| 云霄县| 兖州市| 寿宁县| 曲阳县| 札达县|