奇幻亞洲 新加坡

ASIA'S ALL-YEAR-ROUND WONDERLAND SINGAPORE

Singapore has bags of charisma.Lose yourself in the glittering nightscape, and tick off lively Indian, Chinese and Malay bazaars, sumptuous cuisine and a burgeoning arts scene.

Text & Photos by Navjot Singh, Getty Images Translation by Emma

Super Trees at Garden by the Bay.新加坡濱海灣公園的“擎天大樹”。

在新加坡，可肆意沉浸于五光十色的夜景中，逛逛熱火朝天的印度、中國和馬來集市，享用豐盛的美味佳肴，感受蓬勃的藝術(shù)氣息。

1.Singapore skyline at night.新加坡夜晚迷人的天際線。

太陽西沉?xí)r，新加坡半島上的陽光逐漸黯淡，霓虹燈光閃亮登場。此時，隨意將相機(jī)鏡頭對準(zhǔn)一處，都能收獲令人驚嘆的美景。

新加坡只有彈丸之地，景觀卻極美，激發(fā)了藝術(shù)、文學(xué)、音樂領(lǐng)域的無數(shù)靈感。它還是印度、中國、馬來西亞、印尼、阿拉伯和歐洲文化的大熔爐，但并不偏重某一方，能讓境外游客體驗到純正質(zhì)樸的亞洲味。

想不愛上新加坡很難，它的魅力實在難擋。整齊別致的現(xiàn)代建筑和歷史悠久的殖民建筑混搭出獨特風(fēng)格；一批世界一流的博物館、劇院、藝術(shù)館標(biāo)榜著時尚前衛(wèi)；若想逃離鋼筋叢林，乘車須臾間便可欣賞到熱帶風(fēng)光。

2.Sultan Mosque Singapore.蘇丹回教堂。

When the sun goes down over the Singapore Peninsula, the glistening glass turns into a display of gleaming lights.At this time you can point your camera in any direction and you're guaranteed a stunning shot.

It's little wonder then that this pocket-sized photogenic city-state has been the inspiration for so much art, literature, music and glamour fashion.Yet, Singapore's appeal goes beyond simple aesthetics; this pulsating metropolis is a melting pot of Indian, Chinese, Malaysian, Indonesian, Arabic and British in fl uences, which visitors can taste in the food, observe in the magn ifi cent colonial architecture and hear from the sounds of the night bazaars.

It's a place where you turn a corner, peer down an alley or street, and catch a glimpse of the past scuttling before you.Some may consider Singapore to be an introduction to Asia: it isn't quite India, China or Malaysia, yet accommodates a blend of those cultures and provides visitors with a taste of Asia at its earthy best.

The climate, though hot and humid, is certainly manageable and almost as agreeable as Shanghai.Singapore may not be the Venice or Paris of Asia, but it certainly does have the charm, albeit with a lot of man-made modernity.You only need to venture within a few minutes beyond the city's concrete jungle by taxi or the super-ef fi cient public transport system, to see how rich the island is of natural biodiversity hotspots and tropical wilderness.Singapore has a truly distinctive feel to it, different from any other country in south-east Asia.

I fi rst came to Singapore in 2003 and have been lured back a number of times since.There is no more exotic, stimulating or culturally disparate place outside Istanbul, than energetic Singapore.In some ways, the city-state feels as if it belongs to another epoch; with its neat blend of sleek and stylish hotels, chic boutiques and plenty of smart hostels that lie alongside vibrant bazaars, neon lights and historic colonial splendour.Yet, at the same time, Singapore is a modern-day; forwardthinking metropolis with a burgeoning collection of world-class museums, theatres, art galleries, high-end restaurants and a newly built sports stadium that rivals London's Wembley Stadium.

3.Arab Quarter in Singapore.阿拉伯區(qū)。

4.Colourful homes in Little India in Singapore.小印度區(qū)色彩斑斕的建筑。

City view from the infinity pool at the Marina Bay Sands.在無邊際泳池俯瞰城市全貌。

CULTURAL DELIGHT

A great place to start is at the heart of the city, at the upscale Orchard Road.At one end of this street - home of the city's most luxurious shops, homes and restaurants - is a sprawling green park, Fort Canning.Laid out in 1822 by the founder of Singapore, Sir Stamford Raf fl es, it was home to many governors until 1859 when it was converted to a fort with an arms store, barracks and a hospital.It was subsequently named after Viscount Charles John Canning, who was the then Governor-General and spans over 18 hectares of monuments, blossoming trees, mini lakes and sweeping lawns.

New parts of the city D such as Marina Bay Sands - continue to grow, but nothing says Singapore quite like the Central Business District or the Colonial District.Here's where you'll fi nd all the action, whether it's healthy, addictive, or some heady mix of everything else in between.In time, while many parts of Singapore have become modernised and embedded in a concrete jungle, there is still a rich colonial heart that beats in the shadows of the tall skyscrapers and highways that adorn the city.The British left a strong legacy with some highly impressive examples of colonial architecture, mostly clustered around the city's Central Business District.

Once a formidable statement of colonial splendour, the well-preserved terracotta and white brickwork of the Raf fl es Hotel commands as much respect as it did in its glory days during the British Raj.The high level of maintenance which the Raf fl es has been kept throughout the years is a symbol of how much the local Singaporeans value tradition and live in harmony among a cluster of various cultures.That one tangible, but essential element to a perfect trip is the people one meets, and in Singapore the hospitality is truly exceptional.Endlessly obliging and engaging, the locals couldn't make a visitor feel more welcome.The people here are truly instrumental in de fi ning its warm and easy-going vibe, and are generally open to making new friends.

Then there's the glamorous high-life of Singapore.More than any other city in the Asia Pac ifi c region, Singapore has a 'me' culture in some respects.The luxury city magazines you can fl ip through at airport lounges and high-end eateries will tell you all you need to know about the highbrow cultureof this booming global seaport hub.

High rise buildings.高聳入云的建筑。

Prayer time at the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple in Little India.小印度區(qū)的維拉瑪卡里雅曼興都廟里，一位老人在禱告。

With the days lost to slogging it away at the of fi ce, the city-state is well-known for its energetic nightlife and Singaporeans like to while away their evenings with good food and music.Singapore is laid-out in a simple grid-system with a river running through it so it is easy to fi nd your way around- even if you have no sense of direction.Therefore, sightseeing is straightforward here: Singapore's biggest attractions these days are Clarke Quay and the hip-hop and happening Marina Bay area.Both of these parts of the city are where Singaporeans, and tourists alike, love to enjoy good music, good food and love to party till late - you're sure to bump into a group or two ready to regale you with interesting anecdotes.The most endearing aspect of Singapore's social life, however, is its inter-generational and inter-cultural milieu.Whether you hit a pub in Clarke Quay, walk in the park in the Colonial District or watch a performance at the Esplanade, you'll sure fi nd yourself interacting with people from 18 to 60, all with different backgrounds.

“Owing to its status as a former British cantonment, Singapore has always had a liberal way of life and a cosmopolitan attitude with clubs, parties and a redolent social scene,” says local and Michelin star chef Justin Quek.“Over the years, it has been able to retain that quality of life, always accepting the in fl ux from various corners of the world, and passionate about welcoming new people and showing them a good time.” Quek is the Chef de Cuisine at the Sky on 57 eatery at the Marina Bay Sands and says he adores the vitality of Singaporean life on a daily basis.So, in order to experience this city thoroughly, one must be sure to visit its parks and historical hotspots, which sit side-by-side a pulsating social life.

文化之趣

從烏節(jié)路出發(fā)，穿過繁華鬧市，可到達(dá)綠意盎然的福康寧公園。這座公園曾是新加坡創(chuàng)建者萊佛士的住所，后用于政府辦公，1859年又改建為防御工事。

新加坡日益現(xiàn)代化，但再多的摩天大樓也掩不住奪目的殖民色彩，舊時的殖民建筑仍在原處，包圍著商業(yè)中心。萊佛士酒店是殖民建筑的典范，如今榮光依舊，向世人展示著新加坡人對傳統(tǒng)的珍視、對多元文化的包容。新加坡人民極好客，他們無處不在的禮貌與無微不至的體貼讓游客感到賓至如歸。

新加坡的夜生活多姿多彩。人們白天辛勤工作，晚上靠音樂和美食休閑放松。本地人和游客都最愛去克拉碼頭和濱海區(qū)享受音樂、美食或開夜趴。在新加坡，年齡和種族都不會成為社交的障礙。無論是在克拉碼頭的酒吧狂歡，還是在殖民區(qū)的公園散步，抑或是在濱海藝術(shù)中心劇院看演出，都可以遇到來自社會各階層、不同年齡的人士。

BEYOND THE CONCRETE JUNGLE

Vibrantly colourful by day and night, there is so much to explore in Singapore.To make the most of your visit to this fascinating city, here are some tips that give you an insight into its heart and soul.Get out there and enjoy yourself.And to truly understand Singaporeans, you need to watch them at play, impassioned and losing themselves in the moment at either an F1 race, or during one of the many cultural and religious festivals the city hosts.

Even the most travel-jaded tourists yearn for the quaint when they come to Singapore.If you want to trick yourself into feeling you're not in Singapore but instead on an exotic island resort, head to Sentosa.It's just an electric tram or ski-lift ride away from the bustle of mainland Singapore, but in those few minutes of travel you will be crossing onto one of Asia's most stunning man-made islands.Here, the throb of the city vanishes; the silence is broken only by the splash of boats bobbing along the water.Located on the southern tip of the city-state, the island is home to a number of attractions.These include a gigantic 37-metre replica Merlion statue, a free-standing observation tower called Tiger Sky Tower from where you can get panoramic views across the island and Singapore's fi rst adventure park - the MegaZip Adventure Park.There's also the historic Fort Siloso, which was built by the British in the 1880s to guard the island during the colonial era.

The city-state's architecture re fl ects the rich diversity of its colourful history and the in fl uence of the many cultures that make up the metropolis.The result is a unique mixture of prewar architectural styles.This inevitably consists of traditional Malay houses, Indian and Chinese in fl uenced temples and the mighty classical colonial architecture from the British Raj era.Soon after World War II, Singapore began to emerge as a major international centre, and along with it the city's architecture also started to take incredible shape.By many international standards it displays the delight of the past, present and the evergreen future of this beautiful city.It is arguably the essence of any trip, and even for those who reside here, the sight of coming across historical buildings is a proud reminder of the city's past.

If you want to try authentic Malay, Indonesian or Peranakan cuisine then head to the famous Singapore Food Trail.It's a 1960's-themed food street located at the foot of the Singapore Flyer, the city's giant Ferris wheel.This colossal food hall is perfect for families and couples as you'll fi nd hawkers selling local delicacies from makeshift roadside stalls.Try the all-time local favourite kacang puteh D crunchy, roasted, steamed or fried nuts and beans.

2.A typical restaurant in Singapore's LittleIndia.小印度區(qū)的飯店。

1.Waitress servingfruit in a food court of a Hawker Centre.美食廣場的水果攤。

鋼筋叢林之外

即使是最怕舟車勞頓的游客也希望在新加坡來一場特別的邂逅。如果想假裝自己不是在新加坡，而是在一座有著異域風(fēng)情的海島度假，那就去圣淘沙島。坐上電車或纜車，數(shù)十分鐘內(nèi)，就可離開喧囂的大陸，來到亞洲最絕妙的人造島嶼。在這里，城市的脈動消失了，只有船戲浪花的聲音時不時打破寧靜。

新加坡的建筑反映了其多彩歷史及多元文化，包含了戰(zhàn)前馬來、中國、印度和英國的建筑風(fēng)格。二戰(zhàn)后不久，新加坡成為國際商務(wù)中心，建筑風(fēng)格也與時俱進(jìn)。如今，各類建筑齊聚一堂，訴說著這座美麗城市的過去、現(xiàn)在和未來。

若想嘗嘗地道的馬來、印尼或娘惹美食，去著名的“新加坡路邊攤”就對了。“新加坡路邊攤”是體現(xiàn)上世紀(jì)60年代風(fēng)格的主題美食街，最適宜家庭或情侶聚會用餐。

3.St Andrews Cathedral from above.圣安德烈座堂。

4.A red parakeet in Sentosa Island.圣淘沙島上的鸚鵡。