性冷淡主義者的遁世哲學(xué)

IS NORMCORE THE NEW SEXY?

When the world seems to chase after the “Hollywood standard of beauty”, there is a much smaller group of people that would rather hide their body in loose jumpers. Modest, low-prof i le, and self-restrained, “the Normcorers” blend easily into the crowd.

Whilst most fi nd their value in public recognition, “the Normcorers”fi nd their true self in Zen and ordinariness.

Text & Translation by Madeline Weng Illustrations by Haolun Zhang Pictures by Getty, Muji, Exception, Trendiano, HKTDC, Dongfang IC

世人偏愛美貌與婀娜，卻有一種人唯愛素色與內(nèi)斂——他們是平凡人中的哲學(xué)家，是一個講究純凈感的集體；他們生性低調(diào)謙遜，甘愿隱沒在都市的人群中；他們向往返璞歸真的純粹，喜歡穿大一碼的棉麻衣衫；他們用平凡釋放自我，在平淡中找到通往平靜生活的道路。

“性冷淡”關(guān)鍵字

中性 Unisex

匿名性 Anonymous

樸素 Unpretentious

平凡 Normal-Looking

實用 Practical

90年代運動風(fēng) 90s Sporty Chic

自在 Cozy

格調(diào) Tastefull

In an age when everybody tries to stand out as a unique individual, the trend of normcore goes right against the mainstream, and gets black, white and grey back into fashion. Intentionally, Normcore brands come up with seemingly plain and dulllooking clothes that probably do them little good in building up brand identity.

As a matter of fact, Normcore can actually be the most practical style in the entire fashion industry: since paring clothes can never go too wrong within the Normcore world, wearers no longer need to ponder in front of the mirror every morning. Meanwhile, loose and cotton clothes are obviously more comfortable and raise less weightconsciousness in the wearers.

Def i ned by trend forecaster K-Hole, Normcore embodies an attitude instead of a certain dress code. This philosophical mindset means to help people “f i nd liberation in being nothing special”.

Similarly, in fashion terms, Normcore tries to create a sense of anonymousness. Instead of trying to catch others' attention, Normcore wearers actually show a deeper sense of inner conf i dence and unaffected control of their own thoughts.

With the above said, perhaps Normcore is becoming the new sexy.

A pair of easy-to-wear sports shoes saves you both time and effort.

“一雙方便又好穿的運動鞋就是省心王道”

MARGARET HOWELL @2017 Spring/Summer London Men's Fashion Week

MUJI Organic Cotton Blend Double-Knit Pullover無印良品棉混雙層編織套頭衫

@Menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show Designed by Yohji Yamamoto2017春夏巴黎男裝周山本耀司秀場

例外EXCEPTION

@CENTRESTAGE, Hong Kong JNBY Autumn/Winter 2016 show江南布衣2016年秋冬發(fā)布會

Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy -but mysterious. But above all black says this: "I don't bother you - don't bother me."

山本耀司對黑色的著名見解：“黑色是一種謙虛的顏色，同時它又很傲慢。它慵懶簡單，卻又充滿神秘。黑色傳遞著這樣一種信息：‘我不煩你，你也別來煩我?！?/p>

@CENTRESTAGE, Hong Kong“Addendum”, designed by Lee Tak-shing, first Runner-up of YoungFashion Designers' Contest第40屆“香港青年時裝設(shè)計家創(chuàng)作表演賽”亞軍李德誠的獲獎作品

在這個張揚個性的年代，“無個性”竟也成為了最吸引人的個人標簽之一。“性冷淡風(fēng)”與時尚界一向來推崇的極盡奢華反叛而行，開始回歸灰白黑，并不惜降低品牌辨識度，有意制造出看似單調(diào)，甚至看似毫無特色的服裝。這類服裝除了舒適又遮肉，還能做到真正意義上的百搭：黑白灰杏色任意搭配都依然融洽，不必擔心過季、顯胖或是場合的問題，省去每天苦思穿衣搭配的時間。

實際上，“性冷淡風(fēng)”指的不僅僅是某種特定的著裝守則，更是一種去繁求簡的高級智慧。“性冷淡主義者”用極簡主義的生活方式克制自己對物質(zhì)的繁雜欲念，為自我思考和追求騰出更多的冥想空間。

雖然被冠以“性冷淡”的名頭，這種著裝方式和處世之道反而有可能重新定義都市人眼中的性感。

Y3創(chuàng)始人山本耀司曾經(jīng)說過：“我對賣弄風(fēng)情的女人絲毫不感‘性趣’。相反地，一位專心踏踩縫紉機的女性背影，或是聚精會神縫衣服時的側(cè)影都會讓我感受到一股強烈的情欲。我極其渴望去尊重和幫助那些在社會上立足，為生計打拼的女性?！?/p>

無獨有偶，比利時設(shè)計師馬丁·馬吉拉（Martin Margiela）也提出了相似的審美見解：他反對傳統(tǒng)審美對理想女性的身體的要求和定義，創(chuàng)造了“平面成衣”。這種衣服在沒有被穿上時看起來是完全的平面。

@Milan Men's Fashion Week SS17Designed by Rodolfo PaglialungaSS17米蘭國際男裝周魯?shù)婪颉づ晾飦唫惣悠放菩?/p>

@New York Fashion Week September 2016 Berenik2016紐約時裝周

@ Menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Paris Fashion Week Designed by Yohji Yamamoto2017春夏巴黎男裝周，山本耀司品牌秀場