Jiang Ligang, Yue Juan

Proya Cosmetic Co., Ltd., China

With the rapid development of China’s economy, people’s living standards have been gradually improved, and they begin to care more about their image.Cosmetics applications have become more widespread, and the market volume has expanded year by year.The overall size of China’s cosmetics market has jumped to second place in the world.The Internet and online community platforms are developing rapidly.On the one hand, consumers can get access to more cosmetic information which helps to deepen their understanding of cosmetics; on the other hand, wrong and useless information is also wrapped in it, which inevitably increases the difficulty of screening and distinguishing the right information for consumers.So the rumors related to cosmetics are very rampant, and various expressions make consumers confused.These rumors will have the wrong influence and guidance on consumers’ choice, identification and use of cosmetics.How to crack these rumors and convey the correct cosmetic knowledge to every consumer is a problem that cosmetics practitioners need to solve.

In this article, the rumors of cosmetics that have been popular for a long time and the public’s concern will be divided into five categories:cosmetics definition and classification, cosmetics raw materials, cosmetics selection, cosmetics use, and identification methods.The rumors will be refuted one by one in the following paragraphs in combining with the decades of experience in the industry, relevant cosmetic knowledge, the experience of domestic and foreign R&D and production, and the current industry development status.

Cosmetics definition and classification

Cosmetics definition

According to theRegulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetic Hygiene, cosmetics are daily chemical industrial products applied to any part of the human body surface (skin, hair, nails, lips, etc.) by rubbing, spraying or other similar methods to achieve cleanliness, eliminate bad smells, help skincare and realize cosmetic purposes.The definition of cosmetics includes the manner of use, the body parts for application, and the purpose of use.Then here comes the corresponding question:

(1) Can medicines for external use be equal to cosmetics?

No.Medicines for external use and cosmetics are completely different.First, the requirements for safety are different.Cosmetics should be highly safe, which means safety should be prioritized.By contrast, medicines for external use focus on functions.So the efficacy and risks coexist；Secondly, the target group of cosmetics is people with healthy skin, and the user for external-use-only medicine are sick people; In addition, these two have different effects on the structure and function of skin.When the medicine for external use acts on the human body, it can affect or change the structure and function of the skin, while the cosmetic cannot.

(2) “Edible” cosmetics?

No.The right way to use cosmetics includes rubbing, spraying or other similar methods.They should never be taken orally.Therefore, all cosmetics that claim to be “edible” to explain its natural safety or efficacy of the product can be regarded as rumors.

(3) Do subcutaneous injection beauty products belong to cosmetics?

No.In cosmetics, the site of action is the surface of the human body, including the surface of the skin, the hair, and the nail.Therefore, the subcutaneous injection of hyaluronic acid, whitening injection, Botulinum Toxin, etc., which are used in the market or by some beauty institutions, do not belong to the cosmetics category.

(4) Does the cosmetics have antibiosis, antibacterial or disinfecting functions?

No.The purpose of cosmetics only includes clean, objectionable odor elimination, skincare, beauty, and modification.So, the “cosmetics” that claims to have antibiosis, antibacterial and disinfecting functions are not in the category of cosmetics.

Tips to consumer.In terms of use method, the claimed use of injection, orally taking, and microneedle introduction does not fit the definition of cosmetics.Such as:Cosmetic needles, orally taking collagen, micro-cosmetic, instrument introduction and other related products.

In terms of the part where it applied to, the products claimed being used for private parts of the human body is not within the definition of cosmetics, for cleaning products for all types of private parts of the body.

In terms of use purpose, products claimed to be antibiosis, antibacterial, therapeutic or particularly for indications are not within the definition of cosmetics too.Such as:Products that claim to contain stem cells and epidermal growth factors；Products that claim to be bacteriostatic or sterilized；Products that claim to remove scars；Products claimed to relieve sedation, relieve fatigue, or have other related prevention and treatment of disease functions.

Cosmetics classification

There are many ways to classify cosmetics.They can be divided into special-used cosmetics and nonspecial-used cosmetics in terms of the regulations.They can also be divided into domestic cosmetics and imported cosmetics according to the source of the products.Based on the objects of use, they can be divided into products for babies and men, women and pregnant women.It can also be classified according to the dosage form, efficacy, and location of use.The understanding of the cosmetics classification will be further deepened by cosmetic classification by combining the following statements and issues:

(1) It is a special-used cosmetic, but its special number can not be found?

Special-used cosmetics are cosmetics used for hair growth, hair dyeing, perming, hair removal, breast lifting, bodybuilding, deodorization, freckle removal, and sunscreen.Since special-used cosmetics have specific functions, whose functional components may have certain safety risks, national monitoring on such cosmetics is more strict than ordinary cosmetics and must be approved by the national regulatory authorities for layers of approval.Then it can be sold after the article number issued.In addition to the cosmetic production license number, the specialused cosmetic packaging label must also indicate the hygienic approval number for special-used cosmetics.Any cosmetically listed cosmetics in China can be inquired for registration or registration information through the relevant website of the National Medical Products Administration.Therefore, if a special-used cosmetic does not have a special certificate, It may be a forged and fake product, or it may not be a specialused cosmetic at all, so it is illegal to claim the special purpose of such a product.Another information for consumers, products claiming to have similar functions as “helping hair growth, reducing hair loss and hair break” “solid hair roots” “weight lifting” “making the chest skin elastic” “removing the stench” “isolated sunlight” “whitening”, etc.belong to the above nine special-used cosmetic function product, which does not belong to the domestic non-special-used cosmetics filing scope.

(2) Is imported cosmetics more effective and safe?

When it comes to imported cosmetics, except some well-known big brands, considerable numbers of foreign small manufacturers are not good as Chinese formal cosmetics enterprises in terms of the enterprise scales, research and development, and production conditions, many of which are small brands born in recent years, lacking of sufficient accumulation of sediment.The quality control is also less strict.The foreign cosmetics management is generally more slack, while China is currently one of the countries which have the most slack cosmetic management in terms of regulatory completeness and management system in the world.Therefore, imported cosmetics and domestic cosmetics are not necessarily more effective and safer.

Cosmetics raws materials

The safety risks of cosmetics raw materials should be assessed to ensure that not harmful to human health under normal, reasonable and foreseeable conditions of use.China has a catalog management system for cosmetic raw materials, including catalogs of prohibited raw materials for cosmetics, restricted raw materials, approved raw materials, and lists of used raw materials.In the meanwhile, the prohibited raw materials must not be initiatively added; Restricted raw materials can be used as cosmetic raw materials under limited conditions.The purpose, limit amount and requirements of use should be in accordance with theSafety Technical Specifications for Cosmetics; It is permitted to use raw materials for antiseptic, sun protection, coloring and dyeing.The limits and requirements for use shall be in accordance with theSafety Technical Specifications for Cosmetics; Raw materials that are not included in the use catalogs must be declared as new raw materials, and those materials only could be used after the expert reviewed and declaration approved.So, are the following statements about cosmetic ingredients correct and appropriate?

(1) Does the cosmetics contain stem cells and cord blood?

In order to attract customers’ attention and exaggerate the effect, some brands claim that cosmetics contain ingredients such as stem cells, cord blood, placenta extract, epidermal growth factor (EGF), living microorganisms, special drugs, etc.In fact, it is impossible to contain any of these ingredients which are not in the list of used raw materials in cosmetics.China’s current regulations stipulate that the use of new cosmetic raw materials to produce cosmetics must be approved before production.The new raw materials for cosmetics refer to natural or artificial raw materials that are first applied to cosmetics in China.Only ingredients listed in theCatalogue of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (2015 Edition)can be used in cosmetics.

(2) Alcohol can irritate the skin?

Alcohol whose chemical name is ethyl alcohol, is often used as a basic ingredient in cosmetics, functioning in antiseptic, solvent, astringent and cooling sensation.The choice of and use of alcoholcontaining cosmetics varies from person to person, people with dry skin and people who are allergic to alcohol are not suggested to use them, but for oily skin and acne-prone skin, reasonable use of alcohol is recommended, and even conducive to the health of the skin.So do not have to react exaggeratedly about alcohol and put aside the alcohol-based cosmetics.

(3) Silicone oil will clog pores and cause hair loss?

Silicone oil in shampoos is usually chemically inert, and most of the lubricity after shampooing and hair care comes from silicone oil.Without using silicone oils, shampoos need to use more cations as hair conditioning agents to achieve the same conditioning effects, while cations are often irritating.Causes of hair loss include androgen induction, hair cell damage, hair follicle occlusion, hair follicle dystrophy, etc.So far, there is no evidence suggesting a clear correlation between silicone oil and hair loss.

(4) Mineral oil can cause acne, sensitization, and clogged pores?

If the purity of mineral oil is not high enough, it may indeed cause skin problems.However, mineral oil for cosmetics has clear indicators.It should be highly purified and have low aromatic hydrocarbon content, chemical interness, and safe performance.It is not more comedogenic than the other oils.So it is a safe and effective moisturizing ingredient.Most of the baby oil and cleansing oils are made from mineral oil.Some of the most expensive creams from well-known foreign brands also contain mineral oil.So, there is no need to be too cautious about mineral oil.It may not be very suitable for oily skin, but other types of skin can use them without worrying.

Cosmetics selection

The flourishing development of the cosmetics industry has made cosmetics of different types, dosage forms and functions sprung up like mushrooms, giving consumers more freshness and choices, while invisibly increasing the difficulty for consumers to choose.The general principle of cosmetics selection, first of all, is to purchase products through proper channels, so that the quality and safety of the products could be ensured; Secondly, choose the suitable products based on the skin type and skin problems.Everyone’s skin condition is different.Products that is not suitable for someone may suit the others, so consumers should not blindly choose products.Elaborate combining these representative statements about cosmetics selection:

(1) Is natural organic cosmetics safer?

The “natural” opposites to “synthesis”, but the only difference is the source of the ingredients, and both need to be used reasonably according to the regulations.“Organic” means that the planting process of the ingredients meets the requirements of organic cultivation, which has no direct relation to the safety and quality of the products.

(2) Is the preservative-free cosmetics safer?

In cosmetics, oil, gelatin, protein, water and other ingredients create good conditions for the growth of microorganisms.In addition, the manufacturing process, the packaging process, the packaging itself and the use of cosmetics by consumers may cause the cosmetics to be contaminated by microorganisms.Therefore, preservatives need to be added into the cosmetics to protect the products, prolong the shelflife and service life, ensure the safety, and prevent consumers from potential infections due to the use of products contaminated by microorganisms.Preservatives can be one of the factors that may cause cosmetic allergic and other irritating reactions, but the absence of preservatives in cosmetics may cause a greater safety risk.As long as the manufacturer follows the laws and regulations promulgated by the state and controls the dosage of the preservative within the safe dosage range, the safety of the consumer can be ensured.So there’s no point to worry excessively.

(3) Sunscreen will enter the blood, so sunscreen can not be used?

On May 6th, 2019, the Journal of the American Medical Association published an article on the concentration of UV absorbers in human tissues after the maximum use of sunscreens.It was pointed out that volunteers applied 75% of body skin 4 times a day for 4 consecutive days.It can be tested that the blood contains a trace of UV absorber.This report has caused fierce discussions, and consumers have begun to question the safety of sunscreen.

On the one hand, sunscreens approved for use in cosmetics have passed the rigorous safety evaluations, and most of them have been used for more than 30 years and have been prove to be safe; On the other hand, sunscreens that have obtained special-used cosmetic numbers have been tested for safety before being marketed, so overall, it is safe; Moreover, Chinese consumers generally do not have the habit of applying sunscreen and then taking a sun bath.The amount of sunscreen used is much lower compared with the test volume.Even if there are some absorbed by human body, it is in a very small amount, and will not affect human health.Compared with sunscreen, UV rays are more harmful to the skin.Of two evils choose the less.So it is suggested to use sunscreen as needed.After using sunscreen during the day, the skin should be cleaned at night.

(4) The higher the SPF value and PA index of sunscreen is, the better the sunscreen effect has.So buy a sunscreen skin care product according to its high index?

SPF is an indicator to measure the effectiveness of UVB protection.PA is an indicator of the effectiveness of UVA protection.When the SPF value is between 2 and 50, the sun protection effect is gradually improved.When the measured SPF value of the product is greater than 50, the effect improvement is not obvious；The PA is divided into 4 levels, and the higher the PA level is, the stronger the ability of sunscreen to prevent sunburn.However, when choosing a sunscreen product, there is no need to blindly pursue a high index.On the one hand, different countries have different methods for evaluating sun protection index, therefore, even if two sunscreen products produced in different countries are labeled with the same parameters, it doesn’t mean that their sun protection ability is equivalent; On the other hand, sunscreen products can only achieve the corresponding effects when applied in sufficient amounts, and need to be applied regularly to better resist UV rays.

Cosmetics use

Even with the right cosmetics, it may leads to an undesirable effect even some damage to the skin due to the inappropriate use of cosmetics.Therefore, how to use cosmetics correctly and distinguish rumors to avoid traps is also very important.For example:The more masks are applied, the better the skin is? Mask products are usually safe, and proper use can provide good skin care, but improper use may also cause skin reactions.Table 1 lists the latest classification and application suggestion of masks for the selection and use of mask products fromExpert Consensus on The Choice of Face Mask Product and Use (2019 Popularization of Science Edition).From the table, we can see that the recommended time and frequency of different types of masks are different.It is related to the type of skin, so the recommendations for different skin types are not the same.Therefore, the mask is not recommended to be applied as much as possible, and the appropriate method of use should be determined in combination with the type of mask and the type of skin.

Table 1.Mask classification and corresponding use recommendations

Mask type Use recommendations Sheet mask Leave it on the face for 10～30 mins, and remove the residual mask solution after peeling off; If you feel sticky on the skin, rinse with water and then start skincare.The frequency of use of the mask can be determined according to factors including individual skin condition, skincare habits and environmental climatic conditions to avoid overuse.Peel-off mask This kind of product has the exfoliating and grease removing function, so for oily skin, it can be used once a week; For neutral or mixed-type skin, it can be taken once every two weeks; Not recommended for dry or sensitive skin Such masks are not recommended for frequent use.Hard mask It is commonly used in dermatology departments and professional beauty institutes.Powder mask Soft mask For the use of soft powder mask, it needs to be added with water to make it into a paste, and then applied it to the face immediately.Peel off after being formed into a mask, and wash off the surface residue with water.It has a certain cleaning and exfoliation effect.It is recommended that the mixed-type, oily and dry skin only use less than 2 times a week; Not recommended for dry or sensitive skin

Cosmetics distinguishing methods

There are various methods for distinguishing cosmetics on the Internet, not only in different ways, but also popular.Consumers are convinced of these methods and as a guide to purchasing cosmetics, however, they don’t know that these methods have no scientific basis, so the results and conclusions are not convincing at all.The following is a scientific analysis of these cosmetic distinguishing methods:

(1) Lipstick/foundation and other make-ups contain lead, so it can be detected with silver or gold.

The various pigments used in lipsticks are mostly water-insoluble lakes of organic pigments.The pigments mainly used in foundations are titanium dioxide and iron oxide pigments, all of which are free of lead.Some people claim that they saw the black particles of gold and silver, that’s because they are ground while rubbing, and the particles appear black.Especially the liquid foundation contains titanium dioxide and iron oxide pigments which have a higher hardness than gold and silver, and thus the black streaks are more obvious.There still will be some black scratches when you use the gold and silver jewelry to draw on a new sheet of white paper, since the hardness of the filler calcium carbonate contained in the white paper is higher than that of gold and silver.China has very clear restrictions on the content of heavy metals in cosmetics.There is no simple method for identifying whether cosmetics contain out-of-limits heavy metals or not in daily life.Only by professional testing equipment such as atomic absorption spectrometer, inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometer or atomic fluorescence can detect the content of heavy metal at the ppm level.

(2) Use a cup of water to identify cosmetics?

“It can be dissolved by gently stirring in water, indicating that it will be easily absorbed by the skin; if it does not dissolve in the water, it means that it will not easily be absorbed by the skin”.In fact, the stirring to disperse is related to the viscosity and water solubility of the product, so it has nothing to do with skin absorption.What’s more, cosmetics only work on the stratum corneum, so it is not a good thing to be too permeable.Also, the saying like “if it’s floating on the surface of the water, it's the animal oil harmful to the human body”; “if it’s on the bottom of the water, it’s the heavy metal, lead or mercury, etc.” is even more nonsense.Now studies have confirmed that commonly used animal oils and mineral oils are safe, the phenomenon of sinking under the water is simply because the density of the ingredients is greater than water and has nothing to do with it being heavy metals or lead mercury or not.

(3) Does the apple color show the antioxidant properties of skincare products?

Apples contain polyphenols, which can change color when exposed to oxygen, but the method of preventing discoloration of the product is not limited to antioxidants.For example, a layer of plastic wrap on the surface of the apple to isolate oxygen can also keep the apple from discoloring.Similarly, if the skincare product contains a high level of oil, then when the product is applied to the surface of the apple to block the contact with the oxygen of polyphenolic substance in the apple, the apple will not change color either.Similarity, the apple will not change the colour either if the surface is applied to a skincare product which contains a high content of oil to prevent the oxygen from contacting with polyphenols substances in the apple.

Conclusion

The sun rises and the fog (of rumors) fades.The end of rumors requires cosmetic practitioners to use professional knowledge to educate and guide consumers.As a result, consumers’ understanding of cosmetics will be more objective and rational, which will also help the cosmetics industry move in the right and healthy direction.