楊叢曉
我的家鄉(xiāng)是一個(gè)小村鎮(zhèn),記憶中家鄉(xiāng)人過(guò)年,是從喝完香甜糯軟的臘八粥后開(kāi)始的,年味濃了起來(lái),人們也逐漸忙了起來(lái)……
年味首先彌漫在農(nóng)村的趕大集中。臘月農(nóng)村的大集,處處是摩肩接踵的人群,琳瑯滿目的年貨,此起彼伏的叫賣(mài)聲……辛苦忙碌了一年的莊戶人家,此時(shí)的腰包是最鼓的,也是最慷慨最大方花錢(qián)置辦年貨的時(shí)候:雞鴨魚(yú)肉,一樣也不能少;煙酒糖茶,待客的必需品;衣帽襪履,老少都要來(lái)一套。大人不忘到銀行換一沓嶄新的票子,好留作給孩子的壓歲錢(qián);女人一定要去趟理發(fā)店,將風(fēng)吹了一年的亂蓬蓬的頭發(fā),洗護(hù)燙染一番;小孩子呢,除了買(mǎi)各種零食,煙花爆竹必不可少,而且多多益善。
置辦完年貨,接下來(lái)就要蒸紅棗餑餑了。棗餑餑是膠東人過(guò)年最重要的也是必備的吃食之一。蒸紅棗餑餑的過(guò)程就是一個(gè)幸福而又溫馨的過(guò)程——天不亮,女人們就要早起,將醒發(fā)好的面團(tuán)反復(fù)揉捏。揉面是個(gè)體力活,所以男人也常常加入進(jìn)來(lái),成為揉面的主力軍,面被揉的時(shí)間越長(zhǎng),蒸出來(lái)的餑餑越松軟越筋道,麥香味越濃郁,越好吃。所以,蒸紅棗餑餑的場(chǎng)面是很壯觀的:揉面的,做花樣插紅棗的,在灶間燒火的,一家人分工明確,配合得有條不紊,相得益彰。
過(guò)午以后,家家戶戶的房頂上就炊煙裊裊了。很快,院子的上空,就飄蕩著濃郁的麥香味了,那是松軟噴香的棗餑餑出鍋了。淳樸善良的膠東人,把對(duì)新的一年美好生活的向往,都融進(jìn)了這紅棗餑餑里面,插滿紅棗的大餑餑就像戴著花兒的小姑娘一樣白嫩漂亮,再在餑餑的頂面上蓋上紅紅的梅花印,簡(jiǎn)直就是一件美麗的工藝品。
蒸完了棗餑餑,接下來(lái)的日子就是燉雞做紅燒肉和熏魚(yú)。雞一定是自家養(yǎng)的紅毛大公雞,這種雞肉質(zhì)特別鮮美;紅燒肉最好是新鮮的豬頭,加以各種調(diào)料,燉出來(lái)的就是色香味俱全的紅燒肉;熏魚(yú)最好是用新鮮的鲅魚(yú),微凍一下,然后切成厚薄均勻的片,提前一天煨好調(diào)料,下油鍋炸出來(lái)之后,濃濃的鮮香味就氤氳在廚房里……
吃的喝的一切備齊了,年前還有一個(gè)重要的環(huán)節(jié)就是人情往來(lái)了。善良淳樸的莊稼人,到年底了,不會(huì)忘記平時(shí)鄰里鄉(xiāng)親給予自己的幫助,這家給點(diǎn)年貨,那家送箱酒,喜歡抽煙的送條煙,喜歡喝茶的就送兩包好茶,禮品不在貴重,心意是無(wú)價(jià)的。每個(gè)人臉上都洋溢著笑容,大家都知道禮輕情意重的內(nèi)涵:待春來(lái),鄰里鄉(xiāng)親還是要在這塊土地上朝夕相伴,彼此之間依然需要這份相互守望的關(guān)懷來(lái)溫暖彼此,這份鄉(xiāng)情,千百年來(lái)就這樣在一個(gè)又一個(gè)小山村沿襲了下來(lái),伴隨著愈來(lái)愈濃的年味,散發(fā)著獨(dú)一無(wú)二的醇香。
伴隨著蒸出來(lái)的麥香味,煮出來(lái)的鮮香味,走動(dòng)出來(lái)的人情味,膠東半島地區(qū)莊戶人家的年,就在除夕這天,如約而至了!
My hometown is a small village. In my memory, our Spring Festival started with the sweet and glutinous Laba congee. As the flavor of the Spring Festival got increasingly stronger, people became busier.
To begin with, the flavor was prevalent in the rural fair. The rural fair in the 12th lunar month was full of crowded people, various goods for the Spring Festival, and cries of sellers here and there... For villagers who spent a whole year in working, they were the richest and most generous to purchase goods in this time of a year. Chicken, duck and fish were all needed; cigarettes, wine, candies and tea were necessities to receive guests; coats, hats, socks and shoes were all required for folks of all ages. Adults would remember to change a pile of brand-new bank notes in the bank as luck money for children; women would go to the barber’s shop to wash, care for, curl and dye their hair that was left unattended for a whole year; for the children, in addition to all kinds of snacks, fire crackers were must-haves and the more the better.