春節(jié),這個承載著無數(shù)情感與期待的節(jié)日,對許多人而言,也有“甜蜜的煩惱”。那句“每逢春節(jié)胖三斤”的戲言,背后是好吃好喝過后悄然增長的腰圍與體重,讓人不免生出幾分無奈。而這一切的“甜蜜負擔(dān)”,很大程度上源自那些令人難以抗拒的“熱量炸彈”——炸年貨,它們既是春節(jié)餐桌上的亮點,也是體重秤上的“隱形刺客”。
炸年貨,俗稱“過油”,寓意著“越過越有”。在山東,開油鍋,幾乎成了家家戶戶備年菜的“壓軸大戲”。臘月二十七八,一口口大油鍋在各家各戶支起,熱油翻騰,香氣撲鼻。鍋邊,大人們忙碌于和面糊、切面片、擠丸子,孩子們則圍著鍋沿,期待著第一口熱乎乎、香脆脆的“投喂”,往往是大人們還沒炸完,孩子們的肚子已經(jīng)吃得滾圓。
炸,這個自帶畫面和音效的詞語,無疑是烘托年味兒的“氛圍組”。從蘿卜、豆腐、山藥、蓮藕,到肉、魚、蝦,這些日常平凡的食材,一旦進入油鍋,便伴隨著“吱啦”一聲,開啟了新年的熱烈篇章。于是,家家戶戶炸貨堆滿,仿佛只有這滿屋的炸香,才能勾勒出春節(jié)的輪廓。
炸年貨十分講究次序,面食先行,副食隨后,而在副食之中,又講究先淡后濃。這一份精心編排,確保了每一口炸貨都能保持其獨特的風(fēng)味,是世代相傳的智慧結(jié)晶。
炸面食中,麻葉、江絲、麻花等最是美味。尤其是那江絲,是小孩子們最期待的甜食之一。大人們在面團里揉進糖水,搟成大圓餅狀,再疊起來切成一根根細長條狀。當(dāng)油鍋冒起一層薄煙,江絲就可以下鍋了。炸好的江絲甜而不膩,脆而帶香,若是再裹上一層糖霜,更是美味無比。
而炸麻葉,是孩子們最樂于參與的環(huán)節(jié)。大人們將醒好的芝麻面團搟成薄如蟬翼的面片,將面片中間豎著劃一刀,接下來孩子們便會把面片的一端從劃縫里翻進去再拉出來,翻出的花樣好看,炸出來也更酥脆。麻葉有咸有甜,大人們偏愛咸味兒,孩子們更喜甜,芝麻的香氣和油面香味混合在一起,讓人口齒生香,酥脆到一咬能掉下渣來。
為了保持炸面食的酥脆口感,大人們會待其冷卻后精心分裝,以待賓客臨門時,再取出擺盤,那份香酥依舊,令人回味無窮。
炸完面食,便輪到既能當(dāng)零嘴又能做菜的副食。炸丸子自是一馬當(dāng)先,幾乎家家必備,從素到葷,可謂包羅萬千,不僅美味可口,更寓意著團團圓圓。
這其中,傳統(tǒng)的炸蘿卜丸子最是讓人百吃不厭。把蘿卜剁碎,調(diào)上面粉、雞蛋,加入鹽和少許花椒粉,攪拌成有些黏稠的餡料。挖一把餡料,左手虎口一擠,用勺子往底部一刮,待鐵鍋里翻起層層油花時輕輕下鍋,炸至七八分熟后撈出瀝油,再復(fù)炸至金黃。炸好的蘿卜丸子外酥里嫩、清爽鮮美,做湯亦是佳肴。
小酥肉應(yīng)該是南北通吃的美味,無論是炸至酥脆直接入口,還是作為燉菜的配料,都令人贊不絕口。而藕盒也是家家年菜的專屬,蓮藕的清香與肉香混合,一口咬下去,拉出的藕絲亦增添了些許趣味。炸年貨的另一個大件就數(shù)炸鯉魚了,等年夜飯時將炸好的魚一燉,好吃又省勁。炸完魚后還有個講究,就是要再切些豆腐塊放進鍋里討個吉利,此番炸出來的豆腐名曰“魚豆腐”,與“余都?!敝C音,寓意著家有余財、人有福氣。
一口炸年貨,有人愛油香酥脆,有人喜暄軟香甜,春節(jié)就是能如此和而不同。這些小小的炸貨,承載著人們對新年的無限期待與祝福。在物質(zhì)充裕的今天,這些源自故鄉(xiāng)的滾燙油鍋,以及那一盆盆、一筐筐充滿年味兒的炸貨,有著預(yù)制菜無法復(fù)制的溫度與情感。它們?nèi)缤鹕桨愣言谠钆_旁,成為游子歸家后的第一口家常味道,也是離家時媽媽塞進行囊的叮嚀囑咐。在這些炸年貨的香氣中,我們感受到的不僅是年的味道,更是家的溫暖與幸福。
編輯/刁艷杰
Deep-fried New Year food, commonly known as “Guoyou”, symbolizes “further affluence”. In Shandong, heating up oil in a wok has nearly become the “finale” of New Year food preparations for every household. On the 27th or 28th day of the 12th lunar month, every household may deep-fry food in a large wok, bringing a strong fragrance of hot oil. Standing by the wok, adults are busy kneading dough, slicing dough sheets, and making balls; crowding around the wok, children wait for their first bite of steaming hot, crisp food.
From turnip, tofu, Chinese yam and lotus root to meat, fish and prawn, after being poured into a wok filled with oil, these ordinary ingredients will open a warm chapter of the New Year with a “sizzling”sound. Hence, every household might prepare lots of deep-fried food, as if only the deep-frying scent could outline the Spring Festival.
For deep-fried New Year food, some like its oil scent and crisp taste; others like its soft texture and sweet taste. The Spring Festival maintains harmony in diversity. These small, deep-friend delicacies carry the people’s infinite expecta- tions and wishes for the New Year. In the current well-fed society, these scalding hot woks from the hometown, as well as those deepfried New Year delicacies boast warmth and emotions that cannot be duplicated by ready-made dishes. Piled by the cooking bench like a gold hill, these delicacies become returnees’ first bite of home food after they return home, and stand for their mothers’ advice when they leave home. Amid the fragrance of these deep-fried New Year delicacies, we could not only enjoy the taste of the New Year, but also feel the warmth and happiness of home.