Mary Jo Feeney, Johanna Dwyer, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis, John A. Milner, Manny Noakes, Sylvia Rowe, Mark Wach, Robert B. Beelman, Joe Caldwell, Margherita T. Cantorna0, Lisa A. Castlebury, Shu-Ting Chang, Lawrence J. Cheskin, Roger Clemens, Greg Drescher, Victor L. Fulgoni III, David B. Haytowitz, Van S. Hubbard, David Law, Amy Myrdal Miller0, BartMinor, Susan S. Percival, Gabriela Riscuta, Barbara Schneeman, Suzanne Thornsbury, Cheryl D. Toner, Catherine E. Woteki, Dayong Wu

食用菌與人類健康（三）*

Mary Jo Feeney1, Johanna Dwyer2, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis3, John A. Milner4, Manny Noakes5, Sylvia Rowe6, Mark Wach7, Robert B. Beelman8, Joe Caldwell9, Margherita T. Cantorna10, Lisa A. Castlebury11, Shu-Ting Chang12, Lawrence J. Cheskin13, Roger Clemens14, Greg Drescher15, Victor L. Fulgoni III16, David B. Haytowitz17, Van S. Hubbard18, David Law19, Amy Myrdal Miller20, Bart
Minor21, Susan S. Percival22, Gabriela Riscuta23, Barbara Schneeman24, Suzanne Thornsbury25, Cheryl D. Toner26, Catherine E. Woteki27, Dayong Wu28

8　消費者喜好與食用菌感官性狀

2011年，美國人均消費1.8千克食用菌，其中鮮菇為1.3千克[65]。一項對12 618名美國消費者進行的全國抽樣調(diào)查結(jié)果顯示，2012年，有41%的家庭購買過食用菌，至少消費5.53億美元[66]。其中，有三分之二的戶主年齡小于45歲，31%是有孩子的家庭，而59%是二人家庭；80%是白人，7%為非洲裔，6%為華裔。在所有的家庭報告中，有91%是非西班牙人。年收入＞6萬美元的家庭，其食用菌消費支出占47%。根據(jù)美國烹飪學院和哈佛大學公共健康營養(yǎng)系所發(fā)起的“菜單的演變”，綜合健康可持續(xù)食材的選擇，味道，不同的烹飪方式，人口結(jié)構(gòu)變化的趨勢和良好的商業(yè)模式，催生出了味道濃郁，以植物為主體的菜系。食用菌以其獨特的感官和烹飪功能特性，可以幫助美國人走向更加健康的素食道路。尤其是雙孢蘑菇中谷氨酸（與味精不同）和核糖核苷酸的含量很高。谷氨酸和某些5'-核糖核苷酸是具有鮮味的活性化合物，被稱為食物的第五味。尤其是谷氨酸鈣，可以顯著改善低鈉食品的風味[67,68]。

公眾被建議“將你盤子里的水果和蔬菜減半”“跳過鹽”和“經(jīng)常吃植物蛋白食品”[69]。這些將對制定既能促進人體健康又能改善食物風味的烹飪策略提出挑戰(zhàn)。具體來說，新興的趨勢不是要求消費者必須在放縱和健康之間做選擇，而是可以通過烹飪方式和菜單的創(chuàng)新，實現(xiàn)健康、風味、功能性的有效融合。

食用菌的一項新興作用似乎具有這種融合功能，既能大量減少肉類的攝入，又能在消費者中得高分（數(shù)據(jù)未公開發(fā)表，由美國烹飪學院的A. Myrdal Miller在2013年9月10日召開的食用菌與健康峰會上提出）。由13位成員組成的描述性分析小組對四種烹飪方式（蒸、煎、灼、烤）進行評估，以篩選出可以提供最好感官性狀的烹飪方式。6種墨西哥卷餅Taco（①100%牛肉餡，②50%牛肉+50%白色雙孢菇餡，③20%牛肉+80%白色雙孢蘑菇餡，另三種分別為在①②③的基礎上降低 25%的鈉含量）接受了該描述性分析小組和147名（43%為男性）年齡在18～65歲的消費者的評估。

結(jié)合了因子分析和分類方法的偏好映射分析，旨在評估市場細分的偏好性及其驅(qū)動因素，根據(jù)消費者的不同喜好和選擇，將其分為4個集群（數(shù)據(jù)未公開發(fā)表，由美國烹飪學院的A. Myrdal Miller 在2013年9月10日召開的食用菌與健康峰會上提出）。第1個集群（n=35），首選100%牛肉餡Taco和全部選擇全鹽食譜。集群1中的大多數(shù)消費者習慣以肉食為主，屬于中等收入階層（年收入5萬～10萬美元），且沒有經(jīng)常運動。第2個集群（n=49）喜歡每一個食譜，喜歡肉和蘑菇融合得最好的。對他們這些“美食家”來說，味道是最關鍵的。該集群包括一些年輕婦女，是受過高等教育和相對富裕的一類人。第3個集群（n=27）不喜歡100%牛肉餡的，而喜歡以蘑菇為主餡兒的Taco。這一集群的消費者以素食為主，不喜歡食用肉類。他們中的少數(shù)人屬于高收入階層（>10萬美元），多數(shù)是單身（74%）和學生（44%），而且他們經(jīng)常鍛煉。第4個集群（n=36）消費者只喜歡100%牛肉餡的全鹽食譜。他們同時食用植物性食品和雞肉，以獲取有限的食物享受。該集群消費者男性多于女性，年齡較大，既有較低收入（<5萬美元）又有較高收入（>10萬美元）階層。

這些結(jié)果表明，食用菌在部分替代混合食品中的肉類而不損害食物的感官效果方面具有很大的潛力。為了獲得成功，我們應該基于人口學特征、消費心態(tài)學、慣例和意識形態(tài)對消費者偏好與細分市場的替代配方進行戰(zhàn)略規(guī)劃。

然而，需要研究來闡明如何通過這種方法改進消費者的飲食習慣。通信研究也是解決由新的食物方案帶來的挑戰(zhàn)的一種方法，在某種程度上來說，它是準確的，也是令人信服的。

9　探索食用菌在飲食建議中的作用

幾年來，食用菌已在一系列飲食指導中被提及。在2010年的美國膳食指南中，食用菌被推薦為“最佳”維生素D來源之一[70]。美國膳食指南是聯(lián)邦營養(yǎng)政策的基礎，部分基于科學證據(jù)的系統(tǒng)評價[71]。食用菌正通過各種渠道進入營養(yǎng)推廣階段，如美國營養(yǎng)學院、美國全國營養(yǎng)月、加拿大衛(wèi)生部的飲食指南，以及新北歐飲食，都在大力宣揚“鄉(xiāng)野植物和食用菌”的營養(yǎng)價值[72]。盡管如此，仍然有人指出白色蔬菜，如土豆、菜花和蘑菇是“被遺忘的營養(yǎng)源”[73]。

《美國國家健康與營養(yǎng)調(diào)查》（NHANES，2001—2010年）分析了食用菌消費與營養(yǎng)攝入和飲食質(zhì)量之間的關系，以測定2005年美國成人的健康飲食指數(shù)（HEI）[74]。與非食用菌消費者相比，食用菌消費者攝入了更多的能量、蛋白質(zhì)、維生素B1、煙酸、葉酸、銅、硒，總糖和添加糖更低。同時，其健康飲食指數(shù)的總得分也較高，具體來說，HEI的食用菌得分高于總的蔬菜組分、深綠色或橘色蔬菜、全谷物和牛奶的得分，而食用菌組分的鈉含量更低。

其中一些數(shù)據(jù)表明，經(jīng)常消費含有某些食用菌的食物[74]，也可以借此推廣其他健康食物。這種策略符合由單一性食物向整體性膳食結(jié)構(gòu)轉(zhuǎn)變的新型公共衛(wèi)生和營養(yǎng)推廣趨勢。例如，美國人不喜歡吃深綠色或橙色的蔬菜，但是將食用菌與之搭配就增加了對其的攝入量。同時，美味的蘑菇可以使肉食主義者減少對肉類的攝取。如前所述，蘑菇也可以降低鈉的攝入量。

公眾獲取飲食指導的另一個來源是查看貼在食物上的營養(yǎng)標簽[75]。但是目前還沒有關于食用菌麥角硫因的標簽聲明。關于麥角硫因每日攝入量的營養(yǎng)成分聲明還未明確；同樣的，美國食品和藥物管理局（FDA）還沒有對其進行審核。

10　總體研究需求

伴隨著對研究成果進行有效負責溝通的重要性的討論，本次食用菌與健康峰會確定了許多研究需求。對人類的探索研究需要廣泛觀測免疫功能、腸道菌群、認知、牙周炎、癌癥機制、身體組成和體重的變化。需要研究確定具體的食用菌種類消費引起實質(zhì)性生物學和健康反應所需的數(shù)量、時間和作用模式，并了解食用菌對健康影響的特異性。同樣，與其他食用菌種類進行比較試驗，或許可以鑒定出哪些是生物反應的最關鍵成分。

在個性化營養(yǎng)的尖鋒時代，需要確定誰會是給定的食用菌消費模式中的最大受益者，而誰又不是。敏感性的生物標記可以被識別。飲食、基因組和健康的相互作用是減少全球非傳染性疾病風險的基礎。

亟需開展營養(yǎng)學的國際公私協(xié)作，以解決這些研究需要。協(xié)作和協(xié)調(diào)允許共享資源和開放研究。目前，data.gov是一個為西方八國集團國家提供大量美國研究平臺的門戶網(wǎng)站。

最后，社會必須向著可持續(xù)和保障食品安全的方向發(fā)展。全球?qū)λ?、土地和能源需求的不斷增長，將對食品和水資源構(gòu)成嚴重挑戰(zhàn)。

總之，在幾千年的烹飪和藥用經(jīng)驗基礎上，食用菌與健康關系的研究在過去的十年中得到了快速的發(fā)展。潛在證據(jù)表明，食用菌及其生物活性成分，尤其是麥角硫因、維生素D、β-葡聚糖和硒，對免疫功能、腸道功能和體重管理具有積極的作用。初步證據(jù)顯示，食用菌具有減少慢性疾病的作用，包括降低患癌癥、肥胖癥、阿爾茨海默病和牙周炎的風險。這些證據(jù)都還處于研究的起步階段，當前的問題仍然是集中在食用菌如何以及可能對誰有促進身體健康作用的方面。公共健康營養(yǎng)信息日益增多，包括指導如何向更健康的食物攝入方式轉(zhuǎn)變同時保證持久的美食享受，食用菌似乎起到了可有效改善飲食模式健康性的一個杠桿作用。

11　致 謝

蘑菇理事會和全體作者對致力于食用菌與健康峰會論文集的我們親愛的朋友和同事 John A. Milner博士的逝世致以沉痛的悼念，對他在本次峰會和本手稿的領導和洞察力方面所作的貢獻，以及其孜孜不倦地投身于營養(yǎng)科學研究的精神致以真誠的感謝。特別感謝對本手稿提供幫助的以下各位：Christopher Davis，來自美國農(nóng)業(yè)部經(jīng)濟研究所市場和貿(mào)易經(jīng)濟部門；Michael Kalaras，賓西法尼亞州立大學博士后；Ilya Rahkovsky，來自美國農(nóng)業(yè)部經(jīng)濟研究所食品經(jīng)濟部門；Peter Roupas，來自澳大利亞聯(lián)邦科學與工業(yè)研究組織（CSIRO）動物食品與健康科學部。

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*作者所在單位請見本刊2015年第一期中的同篇名（一）