露蒂·科恩布拉特–斯捷　馮懿/譯

According to Lauren Bravos book， How to Break Up with Fast Fashion， we only wear 10–20 percent of the clothes in our closets on a daily basis. Patrick Robinson—a designer who has transformed global brands such as Giorgio Armani， Perry Ellis， and the Gap—has made it his mission to change how we approach consumerism and our closets.

勞倫·布拉沃在其《如何擺脫快時尚》一書中提到，我們平日里只會穿衣柜中10%—20%的衣服。帕特里克·魯濱遜是一位設(shè)計師，他改造過喬治·阿瑪尼、派瑞·艾力斯和蓋璞等全球性品牌。他把改變?nèi)藗儗ΥM主義和自家衣柜的態(tài)度作為自己的使命。

For over 25 years， Robinson helped haute-couture and other fashion brands to revamp and rethink their business models. “On paper， I was thriving，” he explained. “I was making good money. I was running global businesses and leading design teams in Tokyo， London， New York. But I was also making more clothes than anyone on Earth could possibly wear.”

超過25年來，魯濱遜幫助高級時裝和其他時尚品牌進行改造并重新思考自身商業(yè)模式。“理論上，我過得很好。”他解釋道，“我賺了很多錢。我還在東京、倫敦和紐約打理全球業(yè)務，帶領(lǐng)設(shè)計團隊。但我也在做衣服，做的多到地球上任何人都穿不完?！?/p>

“I felt like I was lying. I was talking out of both sides of my mouth1. On the one hand， I believed in sustainability， ethical labor practices， and community. But neither my businesses nor my actions reflected that，” he said. He knew that he needed to make a change， and thus Paskho was born. Paskho is a company that strives to create functional， fashionable clothes to combat the problems of waste and exploitation rampant in the fashion industry. After establishing the ethical foundations for the business， Robinson began to purchase leftover fabrics from factories.

“我覺得我在撒謊，說話看場合。一方面，我相信可持續(xù)發(fā)展、符合道德規(guī)范的勞動行為和社區(qū)的重要性，但我的生意或行動都沒有體現(xiàn)出這一點。”魯濱遜說。他知道自己需要改變，于是，帕什科誕生了。帕什科公司致力于制作實用與時尚兼顧的服裝，以對抗泛濫于時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的浪費和剝削。在確立了公司的道德根基后，魯濱遜開始從工廠購買剩余的布料。

“After seeing how much high-quality material goes to waste， that was the only way I could feel like I was adhering to my values，” he explained. Still today， much of Paskhos fabrics are saved from landfills， emphasizing the crucial importance of conscious consumerism in todays world. “Not only are our production practices sustainable， but we create pieces of clothing that you want to wear everywhere： our clothes work in Hea-throw Airport; they work on the side of a mountain; they work in the fanciest restaurant in Bologna，” said Robinson.

“看到這么多優(yōu)質(zhì)材料被浪費掉，我感覺成立帕什科是我堅持個人價值觀的唯一方法。”他解釋道。時至今日，帕什科的大部分布料都是從垃圾填埋場中搶救回來的，這體現(xiàn)了當今世界關(guān)注消費主義的重要性。魯濱遜說：“我們的生產(chǎn)實踐不僅可持續(xù)，還制作出了顧客在任何場合都想穿的衣服：我們的衣服在希思羅機場能穿；爬山時能穿；在博洛尼亞最豪華的餐廳里也能穿。”

The brand works to combat social inequalities across the United States by bringing jobs back to underserved communities while adhering to sustainable production practices. It is a business model that aims to bridge the gap between the production process and the consumer by bringing consistent， quality work to the talented Americans who work predominantly with their hands. In contrast to other businesses that took a financial hit during the pandemic， 2020 served as a catalyst for Paskho to hit the ground running2 with their signature Community-Made Maker program.

在堅持可持續(xù)生產(chǎn)的同時，帕什科還致力于在貧困社區(qū)創(chuàng)造就業(yè)機會，以消除美國各地的社會不平等現(xiàn)象。這種商業(yè)模式為主要靠雙手謀生的美國人才提供穩(wěn)定、優(yōu)質(zhì)的工作，旨在以此消除生產(chǎn)流程和消費者之間的隔閡。與其他在疫情期間遭受經(jīng)濟打擊的企業(yè)相比，2020年成為帕什科順利啟動其標志性項目“社區(qū)制造創(chuàng)客計劃”的催化劑。

“The global economy came to a grinding halt. And something just clicked3 for me. There are so many Americans who are hungry for work and who already have the wonderful skills we need to sharpen our competitive advantage，” said Robinson. “We really made it happen.”

“全球經(jīng)濟陷入停滯。我突然有了靈感。有這么多美國人渴望工作，而且他們已經(jīng)掌握了我們提高競爭優(yōu)勢所需要的出色技能?！濒敒I遜說，“我們真的做到了?！?/p>

The first Makers in the Community-Made program were the talented Broadway costumers， seamstresses， and tailors who found themselves suddenly out of work during the pandemic. Paskho set up shop with eighteen Makers in New York City， allowing the brand to continue manufacturing and supplying clothes to consumers at the height of the pandemic when other companies could not do so. The second Maker community that Robinson established was in Gees Bend4， Alabama， a community with a remarkable and unusual tradition of quilting. Although the communitys quilts have been recognized as significant pieces of American art in exhibits at the Whitney and the Philadelphia Museum of Art， the actual quilters themselves have remained in relative obscurity. They have seen little financial gain despite the art worlds recognition.

“社區(qū)制造創(chuàng)客計劃”的第一批創(chuàng)客中，有才華橫溢的百老匯服裝師，也有女裁縫和男裝裁縫，他們都在疫情期間突然失業(yè)了。帕什科與18名創(chuàng)客一起在紐約市開店，這讓該品牌得以在疫情最嚴重的時候繼續(xù)為消費者生產(chǎn)并供應服裝，而其他公司在當時無法做到這一點。魯濱遜建立的第二個創(chuàng)客社區(qū)位于亞拉巴馬州的吉之彎，這個社區(qū)擁有別出心裁的非凡棉被縫制傳統(tǒng)。該社區(qū)的棉被在惠特尼美國藝術(shù)博物館和費城藝術(shù)博物館展出時都被認為是美國藝術(shù)的重要作品，相比之下，實際制作這些棉被的絎縫師們?nèi)圆粸槿酥?。雖然他們獲得了藝術(shù)界的認可，但幾乎沒有得到經(jīng)濟上的收益。

Through the work of Upstart Co-Lab， a foundation that aims to connect capital with creative minds making a difference， Robinson connected with the Souls Grown Deep Foundation， a nonprofit that works to promote the work of black artists from the American south. One year after launching the Commu-nity-Made program in New York， Paskho created its second sewing pod in Gees Bend to provide the communitys expert quilters with reliable salaries and work that recognizes their craft. In 2022， Paskho established its third pod in Eagle Butte on the Cheyenne River Reservation in South Dakota.

“Upstart聯(lián)合實驗室”是一個將資本與有所作為的創(chuàng)新人才聯(lián)系起來的基金會。魯濱遜通過該基金會的幫助，與推廣美國南部黑人藝術(shù)家作品的非營利性組織Souls Grown Deep基金會建立了聯(lián)系。在紐約啟動“社區(qū)制造創(chuàng)客計劃”一年后，帕什科在吉之彎建立了第二個縫紉車間，為該社區(qū)技術(shù)精湛的絎縫師們提供穩(wěn)定的薪水和能發(fā)揮技藝的工作。2022年，帕什科又在南達科他州夏延河保留地的伊格爾比特建立了第三個車間。

“Native American reservations are where some of the worst systemic inequalities are perpetrated，” said Robin-son. “I know that I cant fix these problems by myself. But I hope that I can make some difference by creating economic opportunity for our Makers and their communities.”

“美國原住民保留地一直存在嚴重的系統(tǒng)性不平等問題?！濒敒I遜說，“我知道僅憑我自己解決不了這些問題，但我希望通過為創(chuàng)客和他們的社區(qū)創(chuàng)造經(jīng)濟機會，自己能夠有所作為?！?/p>

By cutting out shipping processes， middlemen， and all the costs associated with manufacturing overseas， Paskho can turn a profit and pay its Makers and laborers a fair wage. The regenerative business model benefits everyone， from the Makers to the investors to the consumers. “Not only are we doing the right thing by putting talented Americans to work， but we actually have a strategic advantage over other companies，” explained Robinson. “Something that were working on today will be done in production in a week or less. Then we can start shipping directly to our consumers. I dont have to wait or pay for a boat to take a shirt halfway around the world. Were a much smarter， quicker company.” Though it took time for Paskhos unusual regenerative model to gain traction at its inception， investors have seen that having the point of production so close to the consumer pays off quickly.

通過簡化運輸流程、繞過中間商、削減所有與海外制造相關(guān)的成本，帕什科可以實現(xiàn)盈利，給創(chuàng)客和工人們支付合理的工資。這種再生商業(yè)模式讓包括創(chuàng)客、投資者和消費者在內(nèi)的每個人都能從中受益?！拔覀?yōu)橛胁拍艿拿绹颂峁┕ぷ鞑粌H是在做一件正確的事情，這實際上也讓我們比其他公司更有戰(zhàn)略優(yōu)勢?！濒敒I遜解釋說，“我們今天在做的東西能在一周或更短的時間內(nèi)完成生產(chǎn)。然后，我們就可以開始直接向消費者發(fā)貨。我不必等待或花運費用船把一件襯衫跨半個地球送過去。我們是一個更智能、更快速的公司?！彪m然這種與眾不同的再生模式讓帕什科在成立了一段時間后才受到關(guān)注，但投資者已經(jīng)看到，把生產(chǎn)地點設(shè)置得離消費者如此近，很快就會得到回報。

Paskhos model provides real， meas-urable impacts such as job creation， increased economic opportunity for chronically underserved populations， and reduced environmental harm. Theres nothing political about the philosophy and ethos of Paskho. Its a brand that is based on the simple value of treating one another and our planet with conscious consideration. Robinson wants us all to reflect on what it is that makes us happy and what it is that makes us fulfilled. “Its not our things， its not our wealth. Its the care that we give to the world and the people around us，” he said.

帕什科的模式帶來了重大的真實影響，如創(chuàng)造就業(yè)崗位，為長期貧困的人口增加經(jīng)濟機會，以及減少環(huán)境危害。帕什科的理念和精神沒有任何政治色彩。這個品牌基于一種簡單的價值觀，即有意識地善待彼此和地球。魯濱遜希望人們都能反思是什么讓我們快樂，是什么讓我們感到充實?！安皇俏覀兯鶕碛械臇|西，不是我們的財富，而是我們給予世界和身邊人的關(guān)懷?！彼f。

“We dont need to give up beauty. We dont need to give up our style or individualism. But we need to ask ourselves—how can I walk through this world more lightly？”

“我們不必舍棄美，也不必舍棄我們的風格或個人主義。但我們需要問自己：如何能走過世界而不留下沉重負擔？”

（譯者為“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎者；單位：華南理工大學）