馬修·基根/文　商裴裴/譯

In early 2023， scrolling on social media meant being bombarded with any number of ring-lit influencers trying to convince you to buy something you most probably don’t need with money you would probably be better off saving.

2023年年初，刷一刷社交媒體，你就會(huì)遭到萬千網(wǎng)紅的狂轟亂炸。在環(huán)形補(bǔ)光燈前面，他們想方設(shè)法讓你用原本可以存起來的錢，購(gòu)買一些你可能根本就不需要的東西。

And then came a cost of living crisis and with it the rise of the “de-influencer”.

隨后，生活成本危機(jī)爆發(fā)，“反種草”網(wǎng)紅隨之興起。

“Generally， we see young people are rejecting the pressures and expectations perpetuated by social media and influencer culture，” says Paul Greenwood， head of research & insight at We Are Social.

“總體來說，我們看見年輕人正在抵制長(zhǎng)久以來社交媒體和網(wǎng)紅文化帶給他們的壓力和期待。”維奧思社研究與洞察部負(fù)責(zé)人保羅·格林伍德說。

De-influencing or re-influencing？

“反種草”還是“重新種草”？

According to Shir Lee Akazawa， social media manager at Virtue1 APAC， marketers and brands need to recognise the motivations driving de-influencing—a desire for raw and real information from credible sources and pivot their influencer strategy accordingly.

Virtue亞太分部社交媒體經(jīng)理希爾·李·赤澤說，營(yíng)銷人員和品牌方要先認(rèn)清“反種草”浪潮背后的誘因，即消費(fèi)者迫切希望通過可靠渠道獲取未經(jīng)加工的真實(shí)信息，再對(duì)自己的網(wǎng)紅營(yíng)銷策略作出相應(yīng)調(diào)整。

“Rather than worrying about ‘de-influencing’， we should perhaps look at it like ‘re-influencing’，” says Akazawa. “Opening up conversations and welcoming different perspectives from a range of credible sources to enable consumers to make informed purchases， instead of paying for blind product endorsements.”

“與其擔(dān)心‘反種草’，我們或許應(yīng)該把它看成‘重新種草’?！背酀烧f，“開啟對(duì)話，聽取來自多方可靠渠道的不同觀點(diǎn)，讓消費(fèi)者花錢花得明明白白，不再為非理性的產(chǎn)品宣傳買單?！?/p>

Is de-influencing feeding the shift towards conscious consumerism？

“反種草”是否在推動(dòng)向理性消費(fèi)的轉(zhuǎn)變？

According to Vice Media Group2’s retail report of 2022， young people are checking in with themselves before checking out with a purchase—77% of young people are asking themselves， “Do I really need this？” before making a purchase.

2022年Vice媒體集團(tuán)的零售報(bào)告指出，現(xiàn)在年輕人去買東西，結(jié)賬前都會(huì)跟自己確認(rèn)一番——77%的年輕人買東西前會(huì)問自己“我真的需要這個(gè)嗎？”

Olivia Plotnick， founder of Wai Social， a boutique social media marketing agency based out of Shanghai， says that de-influencing can be seen as a part of the shift towards conscious consumerism， particularly among younger consumers.

奧利維婭·普洛特尼克是總部位于上海的奢侈品社交媒體營(yíng)銷機(jī)構(gòu)“我愛社交”的創(chuàng)始人。她說，消費(fèi)趨于理性，這在年輕消費(fèi)群體中尤為突出，“反種草”則可以看作理性消費(fèi)轉(zhuǎn)向過程的一部分。

“De-influencing is connected to the rise in younger consumers looking for better-quality products，” adds Plotnick. “Consumers who prioritise conscious consumption tend to place more value on the quality， authenticity， and transparency of the products they purchase. They are willing to pay a premium for products that align with their values.”

“年輕一代的消費(fèi)者越來越追求更優(yōu)質(zhì)的產(chǎn)品，‘反種草’應(yīng)運(yùn)而生?！逼章逄啬峥搜a(bǔ)充道，“優(yōu)先考慮理性消費(fèi)的消費(fèi)者往往更看重所購(gòu)產(chǎn)品的質(zhì)量、真?zhèn)魏屯该鞫?。與自己價(jià)值觀相符的產(chǎn)品，他們?cè)敢獬龈邇r(jià)購(gòu)買?！?/p>

Roana Brito， group strategy director at R/GA3， says that de-influencing is a response to people’s growing fatigue with excessive consumerism and false claims.

R/GA集團(tuán)的戰(zhàn)略總監(jiān)羅安娜·布里托認(rèn)為，“反種草”是人們?nèi)找鎱捑脒^度消費(fèi)主義和虛假宣傳的一種表現(xiàn)。

“The uncertain economic climate has forced people to tighten their purse strings， leading them to look for smarter ways to spend their money. Brands and marketers must be transparent and honest in their messaging to appeal to these conscious consumers，” says Brito.

布里托說：“經(jīng)濟(jì)形勢(shì)不明朗，逼得人們必須系緊錢袋子，尋找更加精明的花錢方式。品牌方和營(yíng)銷人員招攬這些理性消費(fèi)者時(shí)，必須做到信息透明、誠(chéng)實(shí)守信?！?/p>

Will some brands benefit more from de-influencing than others？

某些品牌會(huì)在“反種草”浪潮中獲益更多嗎？

De-influencing has already had an impact on brands across the board， particularly in highly competitive categories that are increasingly driven by efficacy， such as beauty or technology. But the growing trend has been far from limited to these competitive categories.

“反種草”浪潮下，所有品牌均受到?jīng)_擊，尤其是像美容或技術(shù)等越來越受功效驅(qū)動(dòng)的領(lǐng)域。然而，這股浪潮愈演愈烈，受到波及的已遠(yuǎn)不止這些競(jìng)爭(zhēng)異常激烈的領(lǐng)域。

“Interestingly， categories that have been historically motivated by aspiration such as travel or luxury fashion are also increasingly affected by de-influencing，” says Akawaza. “Whether it is the calling out of Instagram travel influencers who have been clearly sponsored by hotels or travel operators， or TikTok accounts that painfully scrutinise every detail of a luxury product to question the exorbitant prices of these goods.”

“旅游、奢侈品等方面的消費(fèi)歷來受主觀期望驅(qū)使，可有趣的是，它們也日益受到‘反種草’的影響?！背酀烧f，“參與其中的有Instagram旅行達(dá)人，他們明面上一直受酒店或旅游運(yùn)營(yíng)商贊助，現(xiàn)在卻大聲呼吁‘反種草’；還有一群TikTok博主，他們死摳奢侈品的每一處細(xì)節(jié)，只為對(duì)這些商品的離譜標(biāo)價(jià)提出質(zhì)疑?！?/p>

The “dupe” trend is another one that fits into the broader de-influencing narrative， which saw spike in early 2023 on TikTok and Instagram. The dupe trend is when creators share videos of a high-end product alongside a cheaper or more affordable version that could be used to achieve a similar look or effect.

2023年初，話題標(biāo)簽“平替”殺入TikTok和Instagram的熱門趨勢(shì)榜。從廣義上講，這個(gè)話題也屬于“反種草”浪潮的范疇。人們?cè)凇捌教妗痹掝}下分享的視頻里，高端產(chǎn)品旁邊擺放著外形或功效相似，但價(jià)格更低廉或更可承受的產(chǎn)品。

“So discounter brands with similar products to high-end versions should be in prime position to take advantage of this shift，” says Greenwood. “Although the product itself will have to be of decent quality.”

“所以說，和高端品牌擁有相似產(chǎn)品的廉價(jià)品牌應(yīng)該會(huì)占據(jù)最佳位置，能夠從這場(chǎng)理性消費(fèi)轉(zhuǎn)變中獲利?！备窳治榈抡f，“當(dāng)然，產(chǎn)品自身質(zhì)量必須過硬?！?/p>

“Brands that have behaved in less than ethical ways need to be cautious， as they will be the ones who will suffer the most repercussions，” says Brito.

布里托表示：“那些行為不端的品牌得小心了，它們受到的沖擊會(huì)是最大的?！?/p>

Ellie Hooper， account director at leading influencer marketing agency Goat， says that with any trend， there will always be some brands that win more than others， “but the overarching message to all should be that credible and true recommendations and thus authentic partnership reign supreme.”

埃莉·胡珀是網(wǎng)紅營(yíng)銷領(lǐng)軍企業(yè)“夠特”的客戶總監(jiān)。她說，不管風(fēng)向怎么變，總有些品牌贏面更大，“但所有品牌都應(yīng)該認(rèn)清最重要的信息，那就是以真實(shí)可靠的推薦促成真實(shí)的合作關(guān)系，如此方可占絕對(duì)優(yōu)勢(shì)?！?/p>

Will de-influencing be the trend to kill influencer marketing？

“反種草”浪潮會(huì)將網(wǎng)紅營(yíng)銷置于死地嗎？

Hooper says de-influencing feels like a consumer-led demand for a reset.

胡珀說，“反種草”感覺就像是消費(fèi)者主導(dǎo)的重置需求。

“I see it as a natural course correction as we’ve moved too close to the sun4 on consumerism and inauthentic partnerships，” says Hooper. “I think we’ve already seen the impact of the trend and the support it’s received， so I’d like to believe it’s left its mark. For brands， it’s done the job of reminding them that they need to be more considered in their approach to promotion. For consumers， it encourages them to take a step back and reimagine their approach to consumerism. And for influencers， it’s a sign to adopt a more authentic stance on their partnerships in a bid to ensure followers trust their recommendations.”

“在我看來，我們自取毀滅般過于接近消費(fèi)主義和虛假的合作關(guān)系，而‘反種草’則如同合情合理的航向修正?！焙暾f，“我想，我們已經(jīng)看到這股浪潮帶來的影響和它得到的支持，我相信風(fēng)過留聲。對(duì)于品牌來說，‘反種草’浪潮給他們提了個(gè)醒，對(duì)待營(yíng)銷策略須更加深思熟慮。對(duì)于消費(fèi)者來說，‘反種草’則鼓勵(lì)他們跳脫出來，重新詮釋他們對(duì)待消費(fèi)主義的態(tài)度。對(duì)于網(wǎng)紅來說，這也是一個(gè)信號(hào)，要求他們?cè)诤献魍茝V中采取更實(shí)事求是的態(tài)度，確保粉絲信賴他們推薦的產(chǎn)品?！?/p>

But despite its widespread prevalence in culture， it doesn’t look as though de-influencing will kill influencer marketing anytime soon.

“反種草”之風(fēng)雖然在社會(huì)上盛行，但好像并不會(huì)立刻致網(wǎng)紅營(yíng)銷于死地。

“De-influencing will compel influencer marketing to evolve and take on a more sustained role in the marketing mix，” says Akazawa. “While there is still a role for big name mega influencers to lend their star power and prestige to brands， brands need to create a cohesive influencer mix to drive a holistic outcome， as trust shifts from individual personalities to collectives and communities.”

“‘反種草’會(huì)迫使網(wǎng)紅營(yíng)銷升級(jí)迭代，在綜合營(yíng)銷策略中發(fā)揮更為持久的作用?！背酀烧f，“品牌依然可以借助大牌網(wǎng)紅的明星魅力和影響力，但人們已經(jīng)不再信任個(gè)體，轉(zhuǎn)而開始信任團(tuán)體和社群，那么品牌就需要構(gòu)建一個(gè)融合網(wǎng)紅力量的綜合策略，集體發(fā)力，共促佳績(jī)。”

（譯者為“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎(jiǎng)?wù)撸?/p>

1媒體集團(tuán)Vice旗下的創(chuàng)意代理機(jī)構(gòu)，主打從內(nèi)部文化著手塑造品牌形象。

2北美一家面向年輕人的全球化新銳媒體集團(tuán)，主營(yíng)藝術(shù)、文化和新聞主題的雜志和網(wǎng)站。

3全球最大的廣告營(yíng)銷機(jī)構(gòu)之一，致力于數(shù)字化商業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)和營(yíng)銷傳播。

4 be too close to the sun變得過于雄心勃勃或貪婪。此說法來源于希臘神話中伊卡洛斯（Icarus）的故事，他以蠟和羽毛制成翅膀，飛向天空，但因飛得太接近太陽，致蠟融化，最終墜入海中溺亡。