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濟(jì)南的秋天

2024-06-07 06:34:28老舍
走向世界 2024年21期
關(guān)鍵詞:山影青黑山腰

老舍

濟(jì)南的秋天是詩(shī)境的。

設(shè)若你的幻想中有個(gè)中古的老城,有睡著了的大城樓,有狹窄的古石路,有寬厚的石城墻,環(huán)城流著一道清溪,倒映著山影,岸上蹲著紅袍綠褲的小妞兒。你的幻想中要是這么個(gè)境界,那便是個(gè)濟(jì)南。設(shè)若你幻想不出——許多人是不會(huì)幻想的——請(qǐng)到濟(jì)南來(lái)看看吧。

請(qǐng)你在秋天來(lái)。那城,那河,那古路,那山影,是終年給你預(yù)備著的??墒?,加上濟(jì)南的秋色,濟(jì)南由古樸的畫境轉(zhuǎn)入靜美的詩(shī)境中了。這個(gè)詩(shī)意秋光秋色是濟(jì)南獨(dú)有的。上帝把夏天的藝術(shù)賜給瑞士,把春天的賜給西湖,秋和冬的全賜給了濟(jì)南。秋和冬是不好分開(kāi)的,秋睡熟了一點(diǎn)便是冬,上帝不愿意把它忽然喚醒,所以作個(gè)整人情,連秋帶冬全給了濟(jì)南。

詩(shī)的境界中必須有山有水。那么,請(qǐng)看濟(jì)南吧。那顏色不同,方向不同,高矮不同的山,在秋色中便越發(fā)的不同了。以顏色說(shuō)吧,山腰中的松樹(shù)是青黑的,加上秋陽(yáng)的斜射,那片青黑便多出些比灰色深、比黑色淺的顏色,把旁邊的黃草蓋成一層灰中透黃的陰影。山腳是鑲著各色條子的,一層層的,有的黃,有的灰,有的綠,有的似乎是藕荷色兒。山頂上的色兒也隨著太陽(yáng)的轉(zhuǎn)移而不同。山頂?shù)念伾煌€不重要,山腰中的顏色不同才真叫人想作幾句詩(shī)。山腰中的顏色是永遠(yuǎn)在那兒變動(dòng),特別是在秋天,那陽(yáng)光能夠忽然清涼一會(huì)兒,忽然又溫暖一會(huì)兒,這個(gè)變動(dòng)并不激烈,可是山上的顏色覺(jué)得出這個(gè)變化,而立刻隨著變換。忽然黃色更真了一些,忽然又暗了一些,忽然像有層看不見(jiàn)的薄霧在那兒流動(dòng),忽然像有股細(xì)風(fēng)替“自然”調(diào)和著彩色,輕輕的抹上一層各色俱全而全是淡美的色道兒。有這樣的山,再配上那藍(lán)的天,晴暖的陽(yáng)光;藍(lán)得像要由藍(lán)變綠了,可又沒(méi)完全綠了;晴暖得要發(fā)燥了,可是有點(diǎn)涼風(fēng),正像詩(shī)一樣的溫柔;這便是濟(jì)南的秋。況且因?yàn)轭伾牟煌巧降母叩鸵哺@然了。高的更高了些,低的更低了些,山的棱角曲線在晴空中更真了,更分明了,更瘦硬了??瓷巾斏夏莻€(gè)塔!

再看水。以量說(shuō),以質(zhì)說(shuō),以形式說(shuō),哪兒的水能比濟(jì)南?有泉——到處是泉——有河,有湖,這是由形式上分。不管是泉是河是湖,全是那么清,全是那么甜,哎呀,濟(jì)南是“自然”的Sweet heart吧?大明湖夏日的蓮花,城河的綠柳,自然是美好的了??墒强此?,是要看秋水的。濟(jì)南有秋山,又有秋水,這個(gè)秋才算個(gè)秋,因?yàn)榍锷袷窃跐?jì)南住家的。先不用說(shuō)別的,只說(shuō)水中的綠藻吧。那份兒綠色,除了上帝心中的綠色,恐怕沒(méi)有別的東西能比擬的。這種鮮綠色借著水的清澄顯露出來(lái),好像美人借著鏡子鑒賞自己的美。是的,這些綠藻是自己享受那水的甜美呢,不是為誰(shuí)看的。它們知道它們那點(diǎn)綠的心事,它們終年在那兒吻著水皮,做著綠色的香夢(mèng)。淘氣的鴨子,用黃金的腳掌碰它們一兩下。浣女的影兒,吻它們綠葉一兩下。只有這個(gè),是它們的香甜的煩惱。羨慕死詩(shī)人呀!

在秋天,水和藍(lán)天一樣的清涼。天上微微有些白云,水上微微有些波皺。天水之間,全是清明,溫暖的空氣,帶著一點(diǎn)桂花的香味。山影兒也更真了。秋山秋水虛幻地吻著。山兒不動(dòng),水兒微響,那中古的老城,帶著這片秋色秋聲,是濟(jì)南,是詩(shī)。

Autumn in Jinan is poetic. Well, just imagine, its an old town, with sleeping gate towers, narrow old stone streets, thick brick walls, a clear stream that circles the town and reflects the shadow of the mountains, and a girl in a red top and green trousers crouching on the bank. If you have such an illusion, it must be Jinan. If, like many people, you cant imagine it, you should come to see with your own eyes.

Do come in autumn. The city, the river, the ancient road, the shadow of the mountain await for you all year round. Surprisingly, Jinan gets a change of scene from a painting of plain landscape into a poetry of beauty and tranquility when autumn comes. The poetic quality of Jinans autumn is unique in the world. There are some best places for each season: Switzerland for summer, the West Lake for spring, and Jinan for autumn and winter. Its hard to separate autumn from winter, because winter is a dormant vision of autumn that God hates to wake. In the end, he gives the two seasons to Jinan.

In the realm of poetry there must be mountains and waters. Then, please have a look at Jinan. The mountains take on a new look in autumn, with a variety of colours, directions and heights. Talking of colours, the pine trees on the mountainside are greenish black, and the colour remains delicately balanced between grey and black as the sun slants through, making the neighbouring yellow grassland appear a heavy shade of mottled grey. The foot of the mountain is dotted with colourful stripes, layer upon layer of yellows, greys, greens and what appears to be lotus root colours. The colours on the top of the mountain also change as the sun moves. More importantly, the different colours in the mountainside make you want to compose poems. Especially in autumn, colours of the mountainside are seemingly randomly distributed, cool or warm, all jumbled together. Bright or muted, the yellows are pleasantly disorienting, with an invisible mist that decorates the surroundings with muted pastels. Against the backdrop of these mountains, the blue sky and the brilliant sunshine, the blues almost become green, but not quite green. Its nice and warm, as soft as poetry with a little cool breeze. This is the feeling of autumn in Jinan. The mountains have obvious differences in height as the colour varies - even more higher and more lower. The angles or curves of the mountains are truer, clearer and slimmer in the clear sky. Look at the tower on top of the mountain!

The water in Jinan is unparalleled in terms of its quantity, its quality and its form. Divided by form, the city is dotted with springs, rivers and lakes. The sweet, clear water makes Jinan a “sweetheart”. Its natural to praise the summer lotus in Daming Lake and the weeping willows by the city moat. However, the water in autumn is at its best. With mountains and water, the autumn scene lives up to its reputation, as Jinan is the home of the God of Autumn. Taking the green algae in the water as an example, its a gift from God that looks like the reflection of beauties intoxicated with themselves. They are lost in their thoughts, drifting in the self-enjoyment of a green dream. They have worries - mischievous ducks sometimes touch them with their golden paws, and washerwomen sometimes block the sunlight with their shadows - and as a poet I envy them.

In autumn, the water is as cool as the blue sky. Under the light white clouds, the surface of the pond is rippled. Between the sky and the water, theres clear, warm air with a scent of perfume. The shadows on the mountain are more realistic. The mountains and the water almost blend into one colour. The old town has a poetic charm in autumn.

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