中國(guó)美食之都 薈萃巴渝飲食文化

重慶，不僅是山水之都、溫泉之都，還是一個(gè)美食之都。重慶由于依山傍水，水路交通便利，碼頭文化濃厚，自古就匯集了來(lái)自五湖四海的人，形成了獨(dú)特的飲食文化。正是這一優(yōu)勢(shì)，使得渝菜不斷汲取各菜系之長(zhǎng)，滋生出獨(dú)特的飲食文化。一方水土一方美食，重慶的美食除了火鍋，民間還有不少流傳多年的名菜，它們也代表著這個(gè)城市品格。要想領(lǐng)略巴渝飲食文化，不妨游走于重慶的街頭巷尾，品嘗風(fēng)味獨(dú)到的巴渝美食。

鹵鵝

“鹵鵝鹵鵝，盯一眼走不脫?！边@句榮昌城內(nèi)的順口溜老少皆知，每到中午、傍晚時(shí)分，大街小巷便是鹵鵝飄香。鹵鵝本為潮汕食物。元末明初，有部分客家人移民遷至榮昌，榮昌成為舉國(guó)聞名的“客家村”。至今，移民已有390多年。客家的風(fēng)俗習(xí)慣在歲月中改變了榮昌人的生活習(xí)慣和飲食結(jié)構(gòu)，連長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)受南方人青睞的鹵鵝，也逐漸成為榮昌老百姓的餐桌佳肴。經(jīng)過(guò)榮昌的客家人不斷適應(yīng)和改進(jìn)，鹵鵝逐漸成為了榮昌地區(qū)的特色飲食。

重慶·榮昌

張鴨子

張鴨子源自梁平當(dāng)?shù)貜埵先思胰鎮(zhèn)鼷u烤工藝，采用獨(dú)特的祖?zhèn)髅胤?，先鹵后烤，經(jīng)過(guò)多道工序精細(xì)加工烹制而成，其以干、香、瘦而聞名，成為重慶一大特產(chǎn)。鹵香純正、色澤鮮亮、味道鮮香。2010年“張鴨子”被譽(yù)為“中華老字號(hào)”稱號(hào)。

重慶·梁平

盬子雞

盬子雞又名紫陽(yáng)雞，其選料甚嚴(yán)，做工考究，是世代相傳深受人們喜愛(ài)的傳統(tǒng)美食。它將高山松柴熏制的老臘肉、農(nóng)家雞，再輔以陳年“大頭菜”，用特制土陶盬子汽蒸而成，這道菜距今已有上千年歷史。1986年時(shí)任總書(shū)記趙紫陽(yáng)蒞臨奉節(jié)，品嘗此菜后總書(shū)記一行贊不絕口，并將此菜工藝帶回北京，而后此菜在川東地區(qū)名聲大噪，從此走紅，紫陽(yáng)雞因此得名，繼而名揚(yáng)華夏。近年此菜傳承人越來(lái)越少，是瀕臨滅絕的菜品。2011年該菜品已批準(zhǔn)為“非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)”。

重慶·奉節(jié)

石磨豆花

運(yùn)用特殊工藝加工而成的石磨豆花，因其鮮嫩可口而流傳廣、影響大。墊江石磨豆花的配方與制作，自有其歷史淵源和獨(dú)特之處。墊江石磨豆花又稱豆腐腦或豆凍，是由黃豆?jié){凝固后形成的中式食品，而豆花比豆腐更加嫩軟。一碗豆花，一碗大米飯，一小碟蘸水，看似簡(jiǎn)簡(jiǎn)單單的一頓飯，卻猶如一組黃金搭檔，清清爽爽，十分開(kāi)胃下飯。

重慶·墊江

辣子雞

紅紅火火的歌樂(lè)山辣子雞聞名于20世紀(jì)90年代，當(dāng)年重慶歌樂(lè)山三百梯一家路邊小店推出了以麻辣為主的辣子雞。此菜一經(jīng)推出，就紅遍大江南北。此菜用料特別講究，主料一定選用農(nóng)村公雞，地道的食材保正了其口感鮮嫩肥美，輔料是上等辣椒、花椒，這樣搭配而烹出的菜品，香氣四溢，誘人食欲，麻辣酥香，鮮嫩化渣。制作過(guò)程尤其考驗(yàn)廚師對(duì)火候的把握，上乘的辣子雞必須色澤鮮艷，與辣椒交相輝映，雞塊入口酥脆，帶有干辣椒過(guò)油后的清香，甜咸適口。

重慶·沙坪壩歌樂(lè)山

烤魚(yú)

有人說(shuō)，到了巫溪必吃烤魚(yú)，正如到了重慶必吃火鍋一樣。巫溪烤魚(yú)味腴而鮮美，營(yíng)養(yǎng)豐富，還具有藥理作用?？局七^(guò)程中，在魚(yú)的兩側(cè)刷上色拉油、香油，然后撒上孜然、胡椒粉，烤制成熟后盛到專用鐵盤(pán)中。將牛油、紅油、白糖、花椒、辣椒、豆豉等調(diào)料混炒出底料，澆于烤魚(yú)之上。再放上豆腐、西芹、生菜等爽口菜，這樣不僅去掉了魚(yú)的腥味，更增加了口感的豐富。巫溪烤魚(yú)由大寧河流域勤勞智慧的船工在勞動(dòng)過(guò)程中創(chuàng)造出來(lái)，經(jīng)上千年的傳承和演變，最終形成一種風(fēng)味獨(dú)特、影響深遠(yuǎn)的美食文化。

重慶·巫溪

大蒸籠

大蒸籠在開(kāi)州赫赫有名，此道菜采用竹子扎成的直徑約50厘米的大蒸籠，盛放拌好佐料的米粉，混合肥腸段、羊肉、豬肉片、排骨段，再以大火蒸熟后便可取格上桌，撒上香菜或蔥花，香氣立刻撲鼻而來(lái)。

重慶·開(kāi)州

（圖片由所在區(qū)縣旅游局提供）

Chongqing impresses the world not only as a capital of landscapes and hot springs, but also a capital of delicacies. Surrounded by rivers in front and mountain behind, Chongqing enjoys favorable transport conditions and rich wharf culture, which attracts various kinds of people all over the world to come and then forms a unique diet culture, namely, Chongqing cuisine which has absorbed the essence of other cuisines. Generally speaking, the food style of certain place is inevitably subject to its natural environment, for example, the hot pot of Chongqing. Apart from this, there are many other well-known dishes which also have been refl ecting the special features of this city. You could wander around the streets and lanes of Chongqing to have a taste of its uniquely fl avored delicacies and feel its diet culture.

Marinated Goose Meat

There is a jingle everyone in Rongchang District knows, regardless of sex and age, reading “a glance at the stewed goose, your purse is about to loose”. At every noon or dusk, all the streets and lanes of Rongchang are fi lled with the delicious smell of stewed geese. As a matter of fact, the stewed goose is a food of Chaoshan Area which was introduced here during the late Yuan Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty when some Hakkas migrated to Rongchang and made it a famous “Hakka Village” of China. More than 390 years have passed since then, and the Hakka customs have been gradually penetrating into the living habits and diet structures of Rongchang people and the stewed geese which was originally only well received at South China has become a delicacy here step by step. After years of adaptation and improvement, the stewed geese have grown to be one signature dish of Rongchang District.

Location: Rongchang, Chongqing

The Zhang’s Duck

Invented and handed down by three generations of the Zhang’s family in Liangping County, the Zhang’s Duck is processed by ancestral secrete recipe which involves stewing first, then roasting and many other elaborate procedures. As one of the special local food of Chongqing, it is quite famous for its dry and thin appearance, orthodox stewing smell, bright and lustrous color and delicious taste. In 2010, the Zhang’s Duck has been honorably granted the title of “China's Time-Honored Brand”.

Location: Liangping, Chongqing

The Ziyang Chicken

The ceramic cooked chicken, also named Ziyang chicken, is a wellreceived traditional delicacy which enjoys a history of over 1,000 years and has been passed down generations after generations with its strict material selection procedures and exquisite workmanship. Steamed in a specially made earth ceramic, it mainly consists of one farm chicken, some old Chinese bacon which was smoked with pine wood of high mountains and small quantity of age-old pickled kohlrabi. In 1986, Mr. Zhao Ziyang, the acting General Secretary of the Communist Party of China at that time, made his appearance in Fengjie. After having a bite of this dish, he and his team raved about it all the way and decided to take its processing skills to Beijing. Later the ceramic cooked chicken became widely famous in eastern Sichuan and even the whole country since then and was given the name of “Ziyang Chicken”, however, less and less younger generations are dedicated to inherit this dish, which puts it on the verge of dying out. In 2011, it has been approved to be one “intangible cultural heritage” for better protection.

Location: Fengjie, Chongqing

Stone-milled Tofu Pudding

Ground by stone mill with special procedures, the stonemilled tofu pudding has its recipe created since ancient times and has been widely spread and well received because of its fresh and delicious taste. Also called tofu jelly or bean curd jelly, the Dianjiang stone-milled tofu pudding is a Chinese food condensed from soy bean milk and tastes softer than tofu. A bowl of tofu pudding plus a bowl of cooked rice plus a small dish of condiment sauce, which appears so simple and clean, prove to be a perfect match and can really work up your appetite.

Location: Dianjiang, Chongqing

Sauteed Diced Chickedn with Chili and Pepper

The peppery chicken of Gele Mountain which looks as red as a burning flame had its name spread all over the streets and lanes of China at the beginning of last century when it was launched by a small roadside store beside the three-hundredladder of Gele Mountain. Generally speaking, its raw materials should be selected strictly, including a local village cock which guarantees a fresh and fl eshy taste and some auxiliary ingredients like pepper and Chinese red pepper which help add a spicy and savory smell. When it is fi nished, the whole place will be fi lled with its delicious fl avor and you can not help but take a bite which is both spicy and crisp and melting in your mouth after several bites. Having said that, the duration and degree of fi ring could be really hard for a chef to control and the fi rstclass peppery chicken must meet the following standards: bright and lustrous color, perfect complement between the peppery and chicken, crisp chicken being accompanied by refreshing fl avor of the fried dry pepper and a perfectly matched sweet and salty taste.

Location: Gele Mountain, Shapingba District, Chongqing

Grilled Fish

It is said that being in Wuxi without having the grilled fi sh is just like being in Chongqing without tasting its hot pot. The Wuxi grilled fi sh not only tastes fl eshy, fresh and delicious, but also is nutritious and has certain pharmacological effects. Firstly, brush some salad oil and sesame oil on both sides of the fi sh, sprinkle some cumin and pepper powders on it, put it on the grill to roast until it’s done and then place it in a specially made iron plate; secondly, fry the mixture of butter, red oil, white sugar, Chinese red pepper, chilli and fermented soy beans as seasonings and pour them down on the roasted fi sh; thirdly, put some seasonal vegetables like tofu, celery and lettuce on top to remove its fi shy smell and enrich the tastes. The Wuxi grilled fi sh was invented by diligent and wise boatmen of Daning River from their daily labor and life. After thousands years of inheritance and improvement, it has evolved into a specially fl avored delicacy and an extremely infl uential diet culture.

Location: Wuxi, Chongqing

The Big Steamer

The Big Steamer enjoys a great reputation in Kaizhou. It is cooked in a big bamboo-bundled steamer with a diameter of 50cm or so where the rice noodles which are already mixed with necessary seasonings are steamed together with segmented pig’s intestines, mutton, sliced pork and segmented ribs. After it’s done, it could be taken out to the dinning table and sprinkled with some more corianders or chopped green onions, then you are about to be greeted immediately by a strong sense of its refreshing smell.

Location: Kaizhou, Chongqing

China's Capital of Food with a Combination of Ba-Yu Flavors